The Insider’s Guide to San Francisco

Ever wish you could text the most stylish people in the world to ask them for their lists of things to do in the places they know best? Here are insider travel tips for those who would never be caught dead in a tourist trap. Bon voyage!

Who

Four in-the-know Bay Area residents shared their insights and recommendations for navigating San Francisco and its famously beautiful natural surroundings: Sherri McMullen, founder of the luxury concept store McMullen; the contemporary art gallerist Jessica Silverman; and Anna Chiu and Valerie Santillo, co-owners of the ethically-made clothing label Kamperett.

What

What to Bring

The consensus? Layers. San Francisco is known for its temperamental weather, and if you plan to spend the day checking out a few different neighborhoods, you will need options for various climates. A light jacket with a sweater wrapped around your shoulders for easy access will likely get you through the day. Just as essential, though, is a good pair of walking shoes. “One of the best ways to see and get to know SF is by walking around the neighborhoods, which can get quite hilly,” says Chiu.

What to Leave Behind

“You can skip the fur coat,” says Silverman. Style-wise, San Francisco is much more low key than say, New York, and no one will be impressed by your flashy pieces. Plus, given the terrain, shoes made for anything other than walking aren’t really convenient. “I would say anything over a two-inch heel would be superfluous in this city,” says Santillo. Chiu adds that anything too ostentatious could attract “unwanted attention.”

What to Keep in Mind

If you’ve read the news over the past year or so, you’ve seen the reports that San Francisco was hit hard by the pandemic and has been struggling to bounce back. News of your trip to the city may prompt a concerned family member to reach out with a well-intentioned, but ultimately superflous “Be careful.” And while one should stay vigilant while walking around SF (just as you should when exploring any major city), in general, the community is still flourishing. “Come with an open-mind, and an understanding that you are visiting a city with some complexity,” says Chiu. “It has its current challenges, but there is also a thriving and vibrant community of creatives, artists, chefs, healers, and designers that can make your time here incredibly enriching and inspiring.”

Both Chiu and Silverman suggest using ride share apps like Uber and Lyft to get around, while Santillo recommends public transit. If you’re feeling adventurous and inspired by the city’s tech-centric energy, you could even try hopping in a Waymo, the autonomous self-driving taxis you will see all over the streets.

Where

Where to Stay

One of the best parts about San Francisco is that, even when you’re deep in the city proper, you’re never far from a great view. The 1 Hotel places you right in the heart of downtown, while providing a gorgeous window into the Bay and Bay Bridge. Plus, their partnership with the Bamford Wellness Spa means you have easy access to relaxing treatments after a long day of exploring. Silverman also suggests Hotel Drisco in the Pacific Heights neighborhood, another spot with great views, as well as the Lodge at the Presidio, which places you right next to the Golden Gate Bridge.

Of course, one of the best parts of SF is its proximity to so many other vibrant towns and cities. For an evening out of the city, McMullen recommends the Claremont Club & Spa in Berkeley, “a big beautiful oasis with an incredible view of the Bay.” There’s also Manka’s Inverness Lodge, a Goop-approved get-away near Tomales Bay that’s set to re-open in early 2024.

Where to Start the Day

Silverman is partial to the coffee at Home Coffee Roasters on Grant Avenue (it does help that it’s just one block away from her gallery). She also suggests Jane Cafe, which has many locations throughout the city, as well as Mama’s, a breakfast spot that sits right next to Washington Square in North Beach, a nice spot to enjoy your food to-go on a park bench.

Of course, a trip to SF calls for a stop at Tartine, a city staple since Elisabeth Prueitt and Chad Robertson opened their first bakery in the Mission back in 2002. Chiu loves to stop by that original location to grab a ham and cheese croissant or brioche on her way to Kamperett’s shop. If she’s looking for somewhere to do work, though, she heads to their larger location, Tartine Manufactory. “I usually leave with two loaves of bread,” she says.

If you’re more in the mood for true sit down breakfast, Chiu recommends the “most amazing” lemon ricotta pancakes at Plow. Or, you can dip into some SF history and try out St. Francis Fountain, an iconic diner in the Mission that has been around for over 100 years. “It has been a staple in my life since I moved here 20 years ago,” Santillo says. “It is a classic.”

Where to Eat

San Francisco is known for its eclectic food scene where you can grab everything from authentic dim sum to the most delicious burrito. Of course, there is also plenty of locally sourced “California fare” as well. If that’s what you’re looking for, check out Rich Table in Lower Haight. “The interior is quite simple and intimate, and the food is outstanding,” says Chiu. There’s also the three-Michelin-starred Atelier Crenn, which Chiu describes as “the most special poetic experience” in the city. “There is a story behind each dish that is both visually enchanting and next-level delicious.”

Silverman’s picks include a mix of cuisines like Italian (Cotogna), Thai (Nari), Japanese (Ju-Ni), Chinese (Mister Jiu’s and Empress by Boon) and more California fare (Octavia and Foreign Cinema). If you’re stepping out of the city on the weekend, there’s also Fish, a lowkey seafood spot across the bay in Sausalito. “Everything is so fresh and the setting on the water is perfect.”

Where to Shop

Modern Appealing Clothing in Hayes Valley will have all the newest pieces from Paris and Japan, so if you need to re-up your Comme des Garçons collection, it’s definitely worth a look. While in the area, be sure to stop by Métier for some antique and modern jewelry scores.

To discover Kamperett’s ethereal cocktail dresses and gauzy bridal looks, head to their showroom in the Mission (note that an appointment is required to try pieces on). McMullen suggests ReLove for pre-owned finds, but if you’re looking to hit up some boutiques, there’s of course her eponymous store in Oakland, just down the street from the equally as well-stocked Dish.

If you’re not in the market for new clothes, there are many shops worth exploring. Silverman recommends talking a walk around the Ferry Building in the Embarcadero, where you can grab a bite while you check out different store fronts and artisan stalls, including one for the SF-based ceramics brand, Heath. And if you’re inspired by the city’s hippie roots, Chiu suggests a stop at The Scarlett Sage in Pacific Heights “for herbs and witchy things.”

Where to Look at Art

One cannot blame Silverman for recommending her own gallery for those looking to check out the art scene. If you want to make a day out of your visit to Chinatown, stop by the Chinese Culture Center while you’re in the area.

Of course, like any major city, there are also a few can’t-miss museums, including the Museum of Modern Art and the Museum of the African Diaspora, conveniently located right next door to each other. While exploring Golden Gate Park, it’s worth stopping by The De Young museum. “Save some extra time while visiting to check out the Japanese Tea Garden next door for matcha and mochi,” Chiu says. Its sister museum, the Legion of Honor, is also just up the road in Lincoln Park, and it just so happens to be the perfect starting point for a hike at Land’s End if you’re looking to take in some nature afterwards.

Where to Unwind

Santillo, Silverman, and Chiu all rave about Kubuki Springs & Spa in Japantown. “It is quiet and dimly lit in the communal baths, which I find so soothing,” says Santillo. “They offer general use of the spa and steam rooms regardless of whether you book a service, so it just feels like an easy way to treat yourself now and again.”

If you’re looking to work up a sweat, McMullen is partial to XCore, a Pilates and VersaClimber fitness studio with locations in Oakland and Marin. Within the city, there’s also Barre Union in Cow Hollow.

Where to Get Some Fresh Air

San Franciscans love nothing more than a Sunday morning hike or a good day at the park, so don’t be surprised if every person you meet recommends a different trail or outdoor activity. Chiu likes a city walk through Chinatown, North Beach, and the Embarcadero, but if she’s trying to connect with nature, walking up Bernal Hill is a good, low commitment hike. Land’s End, meanwhile, provides some gorgeous views of the Bay, while the Presidio has enough paths to keep you occupied all weekend.

Silverman is partial to beach days and you will find her at Thornton State Beach or Fort Funson Beach on the weekends. Of course, you can always take a walk across the Golden Gate Bridge, though the fog may cloud your views.

Then, of course, there’s wine country, parts of which are less than a two-hour car drive away. Pinot Noir aficionados shouldn’t miss heading over to the Russian River Valley, where they can check out wineries like Twomey and Rafanelli. There’s also Charles Krug Winery in St. Helena, Napa Valley’s oldest winery, and one of the remaining continuously single family owned operations in the region. If you’re looking to enjoy some good wine and good food at the same time, head to Paul Hobbs in Sebastopol. The winery recently re-opened their Katherine Lindsay Estate Vineyard where they offer a seated culinary tasting experience paired with their wines.

Where to Have a Drink

After a long day of shopping, gallery hopping, and perhaps even a hike, you’re going to need a drink and likely a good booth to enjoy it in. Santillo loves Tosca Cafe, another SF landmark. “It has gone through some changes over the years, but it still retains most of its original charm,” she says. While the food is great, Santillo prefers it for “the vibe” and recommends grabbing a dirty martini at the bar while waiting for a table to open up at another North Beach haunt.

Both Chiu and Silverman also recommend restaurants where you can skip the res, head to the bar, and grab a good cocktail. Silverman’s go-to is Zuni Cafe (though if you can sit down and eat dinner there, you won’t be disappointed). “My wife gets the margarita and I order the Paper Plane,” she says. You’ll usually find Chiu at The Progress, sipping on a dirty martini just like Santillo.

If you find yourself in Oakland, be sure to check out Bar Shiru, a Tokyo-inspired cocktail bar where they’ll throw on a jazz or soul vinyl and play it through in its entirety.

Where to Stay Up Late

While San Francisco is known for many wonderful things, its night life is not one of them. It’s an early to bed, early to rise kind of city, and while bars in California can legally stay open until 2 a.m., many will make their last call long before that. Santillo admits she doesn’t find herself out late these days, and for the most part, things wind down around nine in the evening. “I suppose I would end up in the Mission if I were to go anywhere,” she says.

That being said, there are many great places to spend an evening both in the city and right outside. Chiu recommends taking in a performance at the War Memorial Opera House, as well as Fox Theater in Oakland, which has McMullen’s seal of approval as well.

When

You may have heard the famous Mark Twain refrain, “The coldest winter I ever spent was a summer in San Fransisco.” Santillo agrees that it’s best to avoid the city around July. “It is usually cold and foggy and I personally try to escape in the summer as much as possible,” she says. She, along with Chiu and McMullen, recommend visiting in the fall. “October is particularly gorgeous and there is such beautiful light. The weather fluctuates between hot summer days and crisp autumn air which I think is magical,” says Santillo.

If you’re interested in timing your trip around cultural events, Silverman thinks January is the perfect time to pay a visit. “That's when FOG Design+Art takes place,” she says. “It’s an important time for art-enthusiasts, museums, and galleries in the Bay Area since we're able to join together as a community and showcase what the Bay Area has to offer.”

Why

Location, location, location. “You can drive 30 minutes in any direction and be in nature or you can drive an hour up north and be in wine country,” says Silverman. “The landscape is beautiful, coastal, and vibrant. The food is fresh and creative. There is a deep and generational thirst for knowledge throughout the city.” Chiu agrees that the magic of SF comes from the variety of choice. “It has all the right ingredients,” she says. “The most incredible food, progressive culture, art and music, architecture, design, and its easy access to so much raw and insanely beautiful landscapes: the ocean, Redwood Forests, mountains and vineyards. You can get stimulated in the city, and grounded in nearby nature. I truly feel so lucky to live here.”