The Insider’s Guide to Istanbul

Ever wish you could text the most stylish people in the world to ask them for their lists of things to do in the places they know best? Here are insider travel tips for those who would never be caught dead in a tourist trap. Bon voyage!

Who

To make the most of your trip to Istanbul—an ancient city that spans two continents—we solicited tips from insiders who have deep ties to its creative scenes: fashion designer Melisa Denizeri, who was raised in the city; Istanbul local Simay Yılmaz, the brand manager of the Turkish leather goods purveyor Manu Atelier and the co-founder of Vintage Istanbul Edits; and the chef and artist Laila Gohar, who recently created an Istanbul-inspired candle and cake as part of her partnership with The Luxury Collection.

What

What to bring

Considering the bumper-to-bumper traffic, any trip to Istanbul will involve tons of walking. “Bring comfortable shoes,” says Gohar. “It’s a city best seen on foot, and, where possible, you’ll want to avoid getting into cars.”

Although the weather in Istanbul is mild for much of the year, Yılmaz suggests bringing layers, while Denizeri recommends a trench coat and an umbrella for surprise bursts of rain. “Istanbul’s nightlife is also one to enjoy, so be sure to bring something chic for a night out,” says Yılmaz.

Denizeri also suggests bringing a notebook and extra bags. “I would bring a large tote for things you [will] pick up, such as food from small vendors, books, spices, or any shopping.”

Denizeri says she’d recommend packing light for a trip to Istanbul, since she “always comes back with so many goods.”

What to keep in mind

Gohar notes that female visitors should have headscarves ready for trips to mosques. “Aside from being beautiful places, they are of course legitimate places of worship for thousands of people, so you’ll want to be respectful of this when entering,” she explains. “You’ll also need to remove your shoes before entering, so best to have something that you can get on and off without too much trouble.”

Denizeri suggests carrying cash, as most small vendors and taxis tend to prefer it. Plus, keep in mind that “it’s hard to avoid any line in tourist attractions,” she says. “And expect people to be smoking in outdoor areas of restaurants.”

Where

Where to stay

Istanbul’s most famous tourist attractions—the Hagia Sophia Grand Mosque, the Blue Mosque, the Basilica Cistern, the Topkapi Palace Museum, the Grand Bazaar, and Spice Bazaar—are clustered in the Old Town neighborhood. For a posh experience nearby, nothing beats the Sanasaryan Han, a Luxury Collection Hotel housed in a building that dates back to 1895. The Sanasaryan Han features plush bedrooms with floor-to-ceiling marble bathrooms, delicious food, and a beautifully appointed library bar. Indulge in the huge Turkish breakfast spread from room service—complete with fresh watermelon juice. “The hotel itself has an amazing level of hospitality and service,” says Gohar.

Yılmaz also recommends hotels in Beyoğlu, a very trendy neighborhood. There’s Pera Palace Hotel and Soho House Istanbul, which is “perfectly located near the city’s major attractions and blends seamlessly with Istanbul’s historic texture.”

For those who appreciate an authentic experience and don’t mind a bit of old-world charm, there’s Grand Hotel de Londres, which boasts a popular roof bar with views of the Golden Horn and an interior filled with 19th-century brocades and oddities.

Where to eat and drink

Both Yılmaz and Gohar recommend Pandeli, a traditional restaurant located just above the Spice Bazaar. “It feels like it's from another era, and the food is authentic Turkish,” says Gohar. “When you go, get their signature anchovy dish.”

Yılmaz also suggests dinner at Aheste or Mabou in Pera, which offer “refined takes on local flavors.” Plus, “if you're a wine lover, Comedus will never disappoint,” she adds. “For a fine seafood experience in Balat, Smelt & Co. is an excellent choice.”

Denizeri’s favorite restaurants include Hünkâr, Kıyı, Karaköy Lokantası, and Mangerie. She suggests trying Turkish coffee at any cafe, along with kumpir (Turkish baked potatoes) from street stands in the Ortaköy neighborhood. “Gunes Dondurma (ice cream) in Bebek is my absolute favorite. I go for the black currant and mastic flavors.”

Other Turkish delicacies include kaymak, a rich clotted cream made from buffalo milk. Don’t miss the local pickle shops, where you can sample various pickled vegetables and sip cups filled with pickle juice—a spectacular hangover cure. To get that hangover, Tavern, in Beyoğlu, makes delicious cocktails.

Where to shop

The Grand and Spice Bazaars are tourist destinations for a good reason. “You get to interact with the traders in a way that you don’t find in the US or Europe,” says Gohar. “I often come away with more than I was expecting as they’ll keep showing you more things until you stop them. It’s fun and feeds a level of curiosity.”

“I love the spice market and back streets of Eminonu for local wood artifacts and ceramics,” says Denizeri. She also recommends walking in the Cihangir neighborhood, for unique vintage and antiques. “Get lost a little.” Yilmaz recommends Vintage Istanbul, in Cihangir, “a must for vintage jewelry and rare books. If contemporary shopping is more your style, my go-to is Shopi Go, a curated concept store.”

Where to experience art and culture

“Attending an opera or ballet at the Süreyya Opera House is a must, not only for the performance but also to admire the building itself,” says Yılmaz. “The Istanbul Modern museum offers captivating exhibitions and breathtaking views of historical Istanbul and the Bosphorus from its terrace.

Don’t miss a stroll through the Arnavutköy neighborhood, which is perfect for taking in the city’s coastal beauty. And the Salt Galata building is another architectural gem worth visiting.”

Denizeri recommends the Pera Museum, which features a mix of historical artifacts, traditional Turkish craftsmanship, paintings, and modern art. She also suggests a visit to the Ortaköy Mosque. “I love to walk all the way to Bebek from Emirgan by the Bosphorus. Stop by Emirgan Park, and don’t skip the Sabançi Museum for a visit and lunch.”

Denizeri also suggests that tourists visit the Istanbul Archaeological Museums. For an authentic experience, she says that locals will swim in the Bosphorus, even in winter, followed by a warming coffee or tea. “And if you have an extra day, take the ferry from Kabatas to the Princes Islands for a bike ride and lunch on Buyukada, Burgaz Ada, or Heybeli Ada, for a super local and memorable experience.”

Where to unwind

Hamams, perhaps better known in the West as Turkish baths, should not be missed. Denizeri’s favorite hamam is the Kiliç Ali Pasa.

Meanwhile, “the Zeyrek Çinili Hamam is a new favorite,” says Gohar. “The hamam is a historical site dating 500 years back to the Ottoman Empire, but it was recently beautifully renovated. Visiting a hamam is the best cure for jetlag, so I always try to go right away once I land in Istanbul.”

Denizeri also recommends finding unique spots to take in Istanbul’s majestic views. “This might sound funny since it is a foreign institution, but the lobby of the Swissôtel in Harbiye is a beautiful landmark with an incredible view,” she says. “Growing up, I would feel so excited to walk into the grand lobby with so many foreigners, with such sweeping views.”

When

Denizeri recommends visiting Istanbul in the spring or fall, when the weather is most mild.

Why

“While some people complain about its chaos, others are deeply in love with the city,” says Yılmaz. “For me, Istanbul offers so much to discover and experience that when you truly start living it, the emotions it evokes are extraordinary. With each passing day, I find myself falling more in love with this city.”