Anthony Vaccarello’s fall 2020 collection for Saint Laurent tested the limits of latex, using a particularly glossy version of the material in everything from skin-hugging leggings, pencil skirts, and thigh-high boots to a more unexpected set of wrap dresses with delicate draping and a fur-trimmed trenchcoat. Paired with 1980s blouses and blazers, the vibe was “dominatrix goes straight from dungeon to day job.” Other sex-forward details included leather-on-leather suiting, structured lace bustiers, and jackets worn over tiny bralettes. Precision tailoring and a rich color palette of plum, vivid blue, mustard yellow, saturated red, and fuchsia kept things from feeling at all costumey—a testament to Vaccarello’s focused vision. Here, some of the best looks from the runway show in Paris.
