Held twice yearly at the Fortezza da Basso in Florence, Pitti Uomo is filled with brands new and old, peddling their wares to buyers from all over the globe. This season featured runway shows from Jil Sander, Telfar, and Random Identities, an interesting modern lot which brought a more forward-facing sensibility to the historic setting. Outside the shows, the style situation was a mixed bag. Effortlessly chic older Italian men were sometimes overshadowed by fellas in their wildest fits (think downmarket Boardwalk Empire extra) begging for the attention of anyone with a camera. Ignoring the attention-seekers, I set out to find some cool guys who caught my eye and asked them a few questions. Here, some of my favorite looks from this week.
1Chenxi Zhao at Pitti Uomo 2020. Photo courtesy of Chris Black.
Black: Where are you from?
Zhao: Shanghai.
Black: What do you like most about Italy?
Zhao: Pizza.
2Chris Olberding at Pitti Uomo 2020. Photo courtesy of Chris Black.
Black: Do you eat whatever you want in Italy?
Olberding: Yes! There is nothing in the food, no pesticides. My system works very well here.
Black: How long have you been coming?
Olberding: 12 years.
Black: What has changed? More bozos?
Olberding: Actually, fewer bozos, because of the economy.
3Cornelius Drabarczyk vel Grabarczyk at Pitti Uomo 2020. Photo courtesy of Chris Black.
Black: Incredible name. Sounds royal. I love all this green.
Grabarczyk: My favorite color is navy.
4David Coggins at Pitti Uomo 2020. Photo courtesy of Chris Black.
Black: Seeing a lot of green today, love yours.
Coggins: It’s off-trend. Not that I know what’s on-trend.
5Federico Battaglia at Pitti Uomo 2020. Photo courtesy of Chris Black.
Black: These pants are giving me a relaxed 70s vibe. A nice contrast to your hair.
Battaglia: These pants are from my dad. They were too colorful for him, and I said, “Don’t return them, I want to rock them at Pitti.”
6Fritz Unuetzer at Pitti Uomo 2020. Photo courtesy of Chris Black.
Black: Cardigan under the blazer. Warmth or style?
Unuetzer: Warmth, it’s just super old four-ply cashmere.
Black: Do you often wear a suit?
Unuetzer: For work, yes, to be honest, I put a tie on just for Pitti. On the weekends I don’t dress like this.
7John Tietz at Pitti Uomo 2020. Photo courtesy of Chris Black.
Black: Great hat. Is it Russian?
Tietz: It’s Patagonia.
8Julien Boudet at Pitti Uomo 2020. Photo courtesy of Chris Black.
Black: Would you call this look, “designer Batman?”
Boudet: No.
Black: What would you call it?
Boudet: Bleu Mode look.
9Mishael Phillip at Pitti Uomo 2020. Photo courtesy of Chris Black.
Black: BIG PANTS!
Phillip: They are Shinya Kozuka, a Japanese designer who studied at Central Saint Martins. He just collaborated with Dickies.
Black: They are great. Well-loved.
10Petar Spasojevic at Pitti Uomo 2020. Photo courtesy of Chris Black.
Black: Do you wear penny loafers a lot?
Spasojevic: No.
Black: You have to put pennies in them! Good luck!
Spasojevic: What’s your name again?
11Sarper Risvanoglu at Pitti Uomo 2020. Photo courtesy of Chris Black.
Black: You live in Florence?
Risvanoglu: Yes, for school.
Black: It seems like kind of a boring place to live for a cool young guy like yourself!
Risvanoglu: It’s quiet.
12Simon Wick at Pitti Uomo 2020. Photo courtesy of Chris Black.
Black: I see you mixing the technical pants with the vintage cowboy boots.
Wick: They are 66 North, an Icelandic outerwear brand.
Black: No buttons on the shirt? Safety pins?
Wick: It’s a sample from my line. I didn’t have time to make the buttonholes.
13Yuchi Takayanagi at Pitti Uomo 2020. Photo courtesy of Chris Black.
Black: Your whole look is on point, very Liam Gallagher from Oasis with the duffel coat and round shades.
Takayanagi: …
