Valentino Captures Pure Couture Fantasy in Chantilly
On the third day of the fall 2023 couture show season, Valentino took guests on a journey fit for a fairytale at a chateau in Chantilly, France. At a time when destination shows are the norm, the brand took couture sensibilities and merged them with an epic set to fulfill a total fashion fantasy on an otherwise typical Wednesday night.
The show opened with an example of couture for everyday—a trend we’ve been seeing throughout the fall collections—manifested in baggy pants, a white button-down blouse unbuttoned to the waist, and gold flats worn with ease. The presentation also included coed models, which is increasingly becoming the new norm in the world of haute couture. Next came little white mini dresses with feather headpieces (which the model held onto as she walked), navy blue capes with silky ivory lining, and a white modified caftan with an asymmetric hem. True to form, it was an elevated summer wardrobe put on a pedestal by couture’s intrinsically high level.
Creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli is known for his great attention to color, and this collection did not disappoint in that respect. There were cobalt blue jackets, an oversized red suit with mirrored appliqués, lilac and lavender-ruffled crumpet dresses, and an explosion of periwinkle blue with rays of metallic gold embroidered throughout. More golden threads and gilded headpieces lit up the collection, contrasting with the clothing’s vibrant pastels.
Aside from the rainbows of color, Piccioli presented another topic to consider: maximalist accessorizing, which felt enlivening after seasons of collections that leaned more minimalist. Here, we saw a bit of old-world chic, with capes and beyond shoulder-length dangling earrings—even golden embroidery that resembled belts on upcycled jeans. Twisted sunglasses and intentionally big, glamorously frizzy hair screamed personality first. Still, practicality was present—by way of dresses with pockets—and even the beige looks weren’t boring against the storybook sunset beyond the castle.
As the models walked gracefully down the stone steps of the chateau (mostly in flats this time), the collection culminated in peak glamour: ice white sequins, a plush marabou stole, a floral gown with sequined and appliqué roses, and one silver metallic looks in so many textures it was hard to count. The collection was enough to reclaim Valentino as the fantasy kingmaker of couture. After all, gold tinsel coats, ruched brick-red gowns with hip cutouts, and bubble dresses with feathers are enough to bring you to another realm—to make you dream, if only for a moment.
