Chanel Loosens Up and Branches Out for Fall 2022 Couture

Somehow, the weather feels hotter in Paris with each passing day of couture week. And Chanel’s latest presentation for fall 2022 couture feels perfectly catered toward the rising temperatures. Gone are the structured, heavy tweed silhouettes synonymous with Virginie Viard’s tenure as creative director at the maison. In their place: easy pieces that are breezy, light, and airy. We’re in the era of wearing whatever our hearts desire, so why not celebrate the joy of unbridled comfort?

For the second time in a row, Chanel ditched its usual Grand Palais venue in place of the Étrier de Paris, an equestrian school in the 16th arrondissement. This time, Chanel decorated the outdoor space with a graphic backdrop and hanging inflatable sculptures from the French artist Xavier Veilhan.

Of course, it wouldn’t be a Chanel show without the classic suit. And there was plenty of that, of course, as Viard is wont to do—but for fall 2022, these iconic pieces were cut longer, leaner, and looser; a little bit more casual and a lot more bohemian. Strapless tweed dresses were styled under slouchy jackets of the same variety and gave a nod to all things oversized and also inherently full of ease. In place of the dazzling high heels many of the models have been wearing at most of the other shows this week, we saw practical ankle boots.

The model Jill Kortleve closed the show as the annual Chanel bride, wearing a look that best echoed these themes of ease and comfort—she wore a strapless white dress with an embroidered and fringed shawl covering her shoulders.

Viard has been at the helm of Chanel since 2019, and it seems like she may finally be getting more comfortable with her own individuality as it fits into the many facets of the brand. After all, this is a label built on the idea of statement pieces, including many strong accessories that still live up to the hype decades after their initial release. At the fall 2022 show, Kortleve wore a little white bow perched atop her head (a look Chanel has reinterpreted for decades) but there were also a diverse range of other accessories that could become house staples: wide-brim hats, crystal chokers, ornate belts. The jewelry itself echoed the archives, as it was heavily inspired by the 1932 Haute Joaillerie anniversary collection—the only jewelry Coco Chanel designed with genuine diamonds.

The return of color also said big things about the power of standing out and dressing for your own heart. A blazer and matching fedora in grass green layered over baggy pants felt like an attempt at a bold new world for Viard, who typically errs on the conservative, monochromatic side of things.

Elsewhere, an oversized pink tweed skirt suit with a matching hat had a similar effect—though not quite as striking as the green. Upon first glance, the silhouette could have been inspired by the ’30s or the ’90s. Either way, the references were all there—but tweaked ever so slightly to become something wholly new.

These are trying times, and there’s no denying that vivid color brings a certain element of happiness. That, along with a more maximal approach to layering accessories—which is so of the moment on TikTok—would be even more exciting to see from Viard as she dives deeper into her work with the brand.