Matthieu Blazy’s Bottega Veneta Debut Embraced Chic Restraint

Upon first glance, the opening look at Matthieu Blazy’s debut show for Bottega Veneta was strikingly simple: a white tank top (not unlike the ones we saw at Prada’s fall 2022 show) paired with low-slung, dark boot-cut jeans. However, these hyper-real-looking jeans were actually made of leather. That concept—understated minimal chic with a burst of surprising, make-you-look-twice dramatic flare—underscored the entire vision for this new collection.

Blazy’s pedigree, after all, is rooted in that sort of thing. He started out working with Raf Simons at Calvin Klein before joining Maison Martin Margiela and later being appointed design director at Bottega Veneta. Now, he’s taken on the creative director position at the Italian house, following a surprise exit from his predecessor, Daniel Lee—a move that shocked the fashion world. Blazy worked closely with Lee, who transformed the brand and gave it a distinct DNA, bringing the label to the front of fashion conversations. With Blazy’s intriguing debut, it seems Bottega Veneta is still firmly rooted in its place of power.

All insider drama aside, this was Blazy’s show and Blazy’s show alone. Along with the trompe l’oeil jeans, there was an assortment of oversized pea coats done in wool and leather. What made some of the more understated pieces feel really profound, though, were the little details that required a double take to truly appreciate. A navy blue V-neck dress with a slit up the side had raised, rounded padded shoulder straps; Lilac and buttercup-yellow circle skirts blossomed with flowing fringe.

Since Lee’s tenure, Bottega Veneta has been catnip for street style stars and retailers alike—its dramatic pieces are easy-to-wear statement makers. Take, for instance, the Puddle Boots. We could still see elements of that in what’s being called the new new Bottega, too. Blazy worked as the designer of Margiela’s artisanal haute couture line, so it’s obvious he has an appetite for beauty and an eye for drama. One only had to glance at the whimsical, iridescent sequin dresses paired with matching opera gloves, or the chunky, orange, fluffy, sky-high platforms to register that fact. Thigh-high metallic emerald green boots were styled with a yellow sequin dress that came with a puff of tulle around the bust area. And the closing look, a peach slipdress constructed of more sequins and tulle, was adorned with trompe l’oeil nipples.

On the other side of things, some looks revealed a more relatable side to Bottega Veneta. There were plenty of oversize boyfriend button-downs—some were worn half-open tucked into little intreccio leather mini skirts, while others were worn solely with thigh-high leather boots, as if they were borrowed from the boys and thrown on effortlessly.

The signature parakeet green that Lee made so ubiquitous was nowhere to be found except on the brand’s new app. Will the buttercup yellow that was all over slips, furs, and boots inspire another flurry of obsession? Only time will tell.