Inside Riccardo Tisci’s First Burberry Show at London Fashion Week, a Bold Statement Was Made
The road to Riccardo Tisci’s debut collection at Burberry was a winding one. And not metaphorically, as far as we know (Tisci has flown relatively under the radar since being named chief creative officer at the British house in March). No, the literal road leading to Monday’s big debut at the South London Mail Centre was winding, complete with highly choreographed traffic patterns and plenty of security. It sounds like a logistical nightmare in theory, but the slowdown at the finish line only helped build anticipation for what was to come.
To say that Tisci’s Monday night show was the most buzzed about and anticipated moment during London Fashion Week would be an understatement. Yes, there was a certain Spice Girl celebrating her 10-year anniversary, but the real talking point from squished front row seats to the week’s various cocktail parties was Tisci. What would one of fashion’s biggest wild cards with a punk tendency bring to a classic British heritage brand best known for trench coats and classic tartan. And, for the Internet’s sake, who would he bring?
Upon walking into the venue, there was no apparent front row, usually identifiable by a shroud of camera flashes around it. Not unlike the road outside, the setup was quite maze-like in its configuration: A raised catwalk snaked around the center of an open room, with rows of plush white chairs and benches set out around it. Of course, Tisci’s celebrity Rolodex knows no bounds; this is, after all, the man who dressed Kim Kardashian for her first Met Gala when she was seven months pregnant. Dozens of A-listers would be there at the snap of his fingers. Surely, no?
The nearly pitch-black lighting situation certainly did not help. Was that woman sitting next to Anna Wintour Margot Robbie? Carey Mulligan? Any other Academy Award–nominated woman with a blonde bob? Nope, just a non–Academy Award nominated woman with a blonde bob. Was that rambunctious child bouncing in a seat North West? Was the man hovering near her Kanye West? Nope, just a child and a man wearing sunglasses indoors. Whispers began to fly—were there any celebrities here? “I heard Justin Bieber was here,” a seatmate offered. I double checked on the blonde bob next to Wintour. Nope, not him.
Riccardo Tisci’s Burberry Was Everything—And Nothing—You Expected
On the runway at the Burberry SS19 show during London Fashion Week on Monday, September 17th, 2018 in London, England. Photo by Cleo Glover for W Magazine.
On the runway at the Burberry SS19 show during London Fashion Week on Monday, September 17th, 2018 in London, England. Photo by Cleo Glover for W Magazine.
On the runway at the Burberry SS19 show during London Fashion Week on Monday, September 17th, 2018 in London, England. Photo by Cleo Glover for W Magazine.
On the runway at the Burberry SS19 show during London Fashion Week on Monday, September 17th, 2018 in London, England. Photo by Cleo Glover for W Magazine.
On the runway at the Burberry SS19 show during London Fashion Week on Monday, September 17th, 2018 in London, England. Photo by Cleo Glover for W Magazine.
On the runway at the Burberry SS19 show during London Fashion Week on Monday, September 17th, 2018 in London, England. Photo by Cleo Glover for W Magazine.
On the runway at the Burberry SS19 show during London Fashion Week on Monday, September 17th, 2018 in London, England. Photo by Cleo Glover for W Magazine.
On the runway at the Burberry SS19 show during London Fashion Week on Monday, September 17th, 2018 in London, England. Photo by Cleo Glover for W Magazine.
On the runway at the Burberry SS19 show during London Fashion Week on Monday, September 17th, 2018 in London, England. Photo by Cleo Glover for W Magazine.
On the runway at the Burberry SS19 show during London Fashion Week on Monday, September 17th, 2018 in London, England. Photo by Cleo Glover for W Magazine.
On the runway at the Burberry SS19 show during London Fashion Week on Monday, September 17th, 2018 in London, England. Photo by Cleo Glover for W Magazine.
On the runway at the Burberry SS19 show during London Fashion Week on Monday, September 17th, 2018 in London, England. Photo by Cleo Glover for W Magazine.
On the runway at the Burberry SS19 show during London Fashion Week on Monday, September 17th, 2018 in London, England. Photo by Cleo Glover for W Magazine.
On the runway at the Burberry SS19 show during London Fashion Week on Monday, September 17th, 2018 in London, England. Photo by Cleo Glover for W Magazine.
On the runway at the Burberry SS19 show during London Fashion Week on Monday, September 17th, 2018 in London, England. Photo by Cleo Glover for W Magazine.
On the runway at the Burberry SS19 show during London Fashion Week on Monday, September 17th, 2018 in London, England. Photo by Cleo Glover for W Magazine.
On the runway at the Burberry SS19 show during London Fashion Week on Monday, September 17th, 2018 in London, England. Photo by Cleo Glover for W Magazine.
On the runway at the Burberry SS19 show during London Fashion Week on Monday, September 17th, 2018 in London, England. Photo by Cleo Glover for W Magazine.
On the runway at the Burberry SS19 show during London Fashion Week on Monday, September 17th, 2018 in London, England. Photo by Cleo Glover for W Magazine.
On the runway at the Burberry SS19 show during London Fashion Week on Monday, September 17th, 2018 in London, England. Photo by Cleo Glover for W Magazine.
On the runway at the Burberry SS19 show during London Fashion Week on Monday, September 17th, 2018 in London, England. Photo by Cleo Glover for W Magazine.
On the runway at the Burberry SS19 show during London Fashion Week on Monday, September 17th, 2018 in London, England. Photo by Cleo Glover for W Magazine.
On the runway at the Burberry SS19 show during London Fashion Week on Monday, September 17th, 2018 in London, England. Photo by Cleo Glover for W Magazine.
On the runway at the Burberry SS19 show during London Fashion Week on Monday, September 17th, 2018 in London, England. Photo by Cleo Glover for W Magazine.
On the runway at the Burberry SS19 show during London Fashion Week on Monday, September 17th, 2018 in London, England. Photo by Cleo Glover for W Magazine.
On the runway at the Burberry SS19 show during London Fashion Week on Monday, September 17th, 2018 in London, England. Photo by Cleo Glover for W Magazine.
On the runway at the Burberry SS19 show during London Fashion Week on Monday, September 17th, 2018 in London, England. Photo by Cleo Glover for W Magazine.
On the runway at the Burberry SS19 show during London Fashion Week on Monday, September 17th, 2018 in London, England. Photo by Cleo Glover for W Magazine.
On the runway at the Burberry SS19 show during London Fashion Week on Monday, September 17th, 2018 in London, England. Photo by Cleo Glover for W Magazine.
On the runway at the Burberry SS19 show during London Fashion Week on Monday, September 17th, 2018 in London, England. Photo by Cleo Glover for W Magazine.
A tweet from New York Times critic Vanessa Friedman seemed to seal the deal—no celebrities to see here. A power move, for sure, and one that certainly drove home a point: This moment was about the clothes, and the clothes alone. And in the end, it worked. For perhaps the first time in the spring 2019 season, now officially at its halfway point, not a single editor spent the show tweeting, ‘gramming, texting, checking Google Maps, or anything else involving a cellular device. (Except, of course, for taking some videos of the collection. This isn’t 1999.) Instead, everyone was completely enraptured by the fashion show at hand—and isn’t that the actual reason we’re all supposed to be here?
To this end, Tisci certainly kept everyone on their toes. According to the show notes, emailed immediately after the last look had hit the runway, the collection was broken into three parts: refined, relaxed, and evening. The collection, as a whole, was called Kingdom.
“I was thinking a lot about journeys as I started putting together my first Burberry collection,” Tisci said in a statement in the show notes. “From my personal journey back to London 20 years after I showed my graduate collection here, to how far I have come. I was also inspired by how much London—the city that made me dream to become a designer—has evolved. This show is a celebration of the cultures, the traditions and the codes of this historic fashion house and of the eclecticism that makes up the beautifully diverse United Kingdom.”
The show began with a true nod to the brand’s heritage, with a great showing of very wearable modern pieces done in shades of beige that incorporated both the classic Burberry tartan and Tisci’s newly redesigned logo. Then came a large showing of men’s wear, followed by more classically Tisci pieces—lacy slip dresses, graphic T-shirts, fringe, etc.—as well as some classic finale gowns. All in all, there were 133 looks, something for literally everyone.
And in the end, there was even something for someone just wanting to see a celebrity. Taking to the catwalk were supermodels past and present, including Irina Shayk, Natalia Vodianova, Lily Donaldson, Mariacarla Boscono, Jourdan Dunn, Stella Tennant, Freja Beha Erichsen, and, yes, Kendall Jenner. It may be a new era for Tisci, but some things will never change.
The Best Looks From London Fashion Week So Far
Jonathan Anderson’s bohemian wares are exactly what women will be wanting to wear come spring. The clothes are interesting and thoughtful, but not overwrought. Throw on this dress with a sandal or sneaker and you’ll be ready to take on the day.
Victoria Beckham celebrated her 10-year anniversary in London this season, with a collection full of color and sport. For the woman missing Phoebe Philo’s Céline, there were lots of pieces in this collection that will help fill the hole in your closet.
This week at Halpern, we saw that not everything has to be in sequin. The designer experimented with new silhouettes, although he was certain to give his clients a dose of what he’s known for: over-the-top colorful, disco-heyday glam.
Though there were quite a few frothy concoctions in tulle in her spring show, Molly Goddard also introduced a few resort-y looks this season that will be essential to a picture-perfect holiday, including this gingham opening look on Edie Campbell.
Victoria Beckham is not the only one celebrating an anniversary this week. Mary Katrantzou has also been in business for 10 years, and her success comes from the steady evolution of her point-of-view and her fantastical digital prints, of which this butterfly number was a standout this season.
The madcap mix of fabrics, textures, and colors at Matty Bovan were pure fun, a genuine rebellion against all of the depressing headlines that we’re inundated with daily.
While Ashley Williams’s tees that read “retired and loving it” were cheeky and fun, quite a few of the animal stripe pieces, including this tiered dress, are a fun way to work zebra into your everyday wardrobe.
Gareth Pugh threw back to a black-and-red archive print this season, one from his graduate collection. It was a punchy color scheme that lent itself well to a voguing-inspired collection.
Alexa Chung’s travel-themed runway collection was chock-full of what the girls who follow her on Instagram will want: easy printed dresses, basket and sac bags, and the occasional jelly sandal.
Ryan Lo certainly allowed himself the pleasure of delving into his greatest fantasy this season. While the spring collection even featured a knight in shining armor (which, some might say, feels very archaic in this day and age), there will certainly be an audience for his über-feminine, fanciful dresses.
While there were perhaps more elaborate looks on Simone Rocha’s spring runway than the one pictured here (others featured large hats and veiling, with signature embroidered flowers), this, in particular, showcases a part of Rocha’s background that she has yet to share through fashion: Eighteenth-century Chinese women and the Chinese festival of Qing Ming (or, literally, Tomb Sweeping Day) inspired this ethereal collection.
Rejina Pyo’s spring collection was a study in color contrasts. Unlikely duos of neon green and pastel blue and this combination of orange and rust with a lilac-hued bag were delightful and surprising, and made us rethink the color-blocking opportunities in our own closet.
Don’t worry, Emilia Wickstead did show her very English and very charming floral prints; her spring collection was filled with dainty pastels. However, it was such a surprise to see this all-black look, with accentuated hips and a—dare we say—almost sexy neckline.
It is so nice to see London designers’ bold declarations with color this fashion week, and this feminine dress in sunset hues makes us wish for warmer days spent on holiday.
Christopher Kane has been indulging in shimmer and shine the past few seasons, and who can blame him? Everyone needs a pick-me-up from the daily Brexit headlines. The joy of getting glammed up and throwing on a pair of sneakers is the new, modern way women wish to dress, something that Kane picked up on in his spring 2019 collection.
It’s as if Erdem Moralioglu took a dance through the decades in creating his spring collection for his eponymous line. There were Victorian puff sleeves though to ‘50s nipped waist and full skirt cocktail dresses. Riding habits of yore and oversized bows worthy of Marie Antoinette also took center stage.
The lovely duo behind Rixo London, Henrietta Rix and Orlagh McCloskey, offered up another fun and cheeky mixed print collection, set in a farmer’s market. London’s It Girls – including presenter Laura Jackson, who collaborated with Rixo on a capsule collection this season – will certainly snap up the new dresses to wear to their next event.
Richard Quinn, the young designer who famously had Queen Elizabeth sitting in the front row last season, presented a series of dramatic beaded floral dresses, and sculptural leopard coats. After starting his show with a blank slate (many models walked the runway in all black looks, with their heads, arms, and legs covered) this look was the middle ground between all the flourish and the gothic black. One could easily imagine any cool girl in east London wearing this beaded Hawaiian shirt, and patent pants, for day or night.
While there has been much speculation of Burberry’s new era, one thing is for certain – it will be chock full of shoppable pieces all different kinds of girls will want to snap up – from this souped-up trench coat to specialty denim. Another trench – like one that was carefully embellished with round pearls and white feathers – was an editorial highlights we’re sure to see on the cover of a magazine come next August.
