A Guide to Long Weekends in the Catskills & Beyond

As summer heats up, thoughts turn to getaways and much-needed breaks. Beach chic on the Mediterranean? Nature adventure in South America? Food trek through Asia? Hmm… how about chilling in upstate New York? Thanks to some recent arrivals, the Catskills and surrounding areas offer not just breathtaking scenery, but fabulous spas and dining options to rival New York City’s best.

Case in point is Piaule, which appropriately bills itself as a “landscape hotel.” Comprised of 24 eco-friendly cabins, it is situated on a hill with tree-top level views over swooping vistas. There is a minimal spa with sauna, steam bath, an indoor pool and cold plunge, yoga, and treatment rooms. It’s the top-notch restaurant, however, that takes the fresh rhubarb cake, thanks to a sophisticated tasting menu of seasonal dishes with ingredients sourced from local farms—not to mention an impressive array of decidedly un-local caviar.

At Wildflower Farms, foodies can take baking and pickling classes or forage the property’s namesake land, then head to its restaurant, Clay, which focuses on rustic, locally sourced New American cuisine. Anyone eager to unplug can head to Thistle, the holistic spa, for bodywork, customizable skin remedies, Pilates, meditation, or Reiki treatments; those looking for new connections are likely to make them lounging poolside, taking tours of the local roads and trails on electric bikes, or hanging out by the enormous outdoor fire pit, which serves as a natural gathering spot around sunset.

Inness is a stone’s throw away. Their cabins, restaurant, and events space feature clean lines and contemporary design, while a beautiful farmhouse that doubles as a communal pad is all about vernacular architecture with cozy couches, blazing fires, and a few immaculately appointed guestrooms. There are 220 acres of pristine nature for aimless meandering–as well as a new golf course for those who prefer more focused walks. (Also on offer: two saltwater pools, a couple of tennis courts, and, coming spring 2024, a spa.) You can enjoy many of these amenities without spending the night—for area residents and regulars, Inness offers club memberships.

Located just outside of the lively village of Rhinebeck, Habitas on Hudson has 20 rooms set across a historic Neo-Baroque manor house and two adjacent structures—plus a spa with barrel sauna and cold plunge, a pond, tennis and padel courts, and wellness programs including sound meditation and breathwork sessions. The ethos of the place is about sparking connections between visitors—whether it’s through yoga on the outdoor deck, chef-led cooking classes, mushroom gathering walks, plant dye workshops, movie screenings, or live music and DJ sets at Social, the aptly named restaurant.

In a fairytale-like setting, perched next to a lake surrounded by jagged cliffs, is the OG resort of the area, Mohonk Mountain House. The vibe here is not hygge chic—picture instead a gloriously rambling collection of buildings that have accumulated since the family-owned pile opened its doors in 1869. Mohonk is perfect for intergenerational clans: family-friendly activities include archery and axe-throwing. But there is also an ultra-chic spa—unwind with an outdoor massage after hiking the surrounding peaks. And the lake is a draw not just in the summer but also off-season, when adventurous fitness enthusiasts take directed five-minute dips to boost circulation, stamina, and mental acuity. On one such bracing excursion last spring, a group spontaneously burst into singing “Living on a Prayer” as they splashed in the icy waters.

Just across the state border, in Washington, Connecticut, is another grande dame country retreat, the Mayflower Inn & Spa, which was founded in 1920. Nestled among 58 acres of gardens and woods, with immaculately appointed rooms and suites in traditional New England style, the Mayflower has always been about celebrating the idyllic good life. Wellness is a big component of that equation these days, thanks to special fitness events and experiences with workout studios and practitioners including Erica Bloom Wellness Collective, Forma Pilates, and the Sculpt Society. The hotel’s Visiting Master Program features healing sessions with experts on disciplines including acupuncture, fascia flossing, restorative yoga, and hormonal health.

Yes, I’m well aware that Connecticut is technically not Upstate—and that Montauk is most definitely not Upstate. But I guess Montauk is roughly the same distance from New York City, just in the opposite direction? And sometimes you just need the beach, so there you go. Like Mohonk and the Mayflower Inn, Gurney’s Montauk Resort & Seawater Spa isn’t exactly new—it has been around since 1926. The main draw, of course, is its stunning oceanfront—but the spa treatments, saltwater pool, and four plunge pools—ranging in temperature from a frigid 50 degrees to a very toasty 104—come in close second. (The spa underwent a $20 million renovation just last year.) The vibe at night can get pretty festive, with beachside music and drinks, but don’t let that interfere with your mission to recharge; the morning after, you can just head back to the spa and ask for an IV vitamin drip. After all, what’s the point of going on a detox if we can’t enjoy a bit of retox?