The Insider’s Guide to Negril, Jamaica
Ever wish you could text the most stylish people in the world to ask them for their lists of things to do in the places they know best? Here are insider travel tips for those who would never be caught dead in a tourist trap. Bon voyage!
Who
Four chic Negril regulars share their top spots and local secrets for the gorgeous Jamaican hideaway: Kingston-based stylist and writer Mecca James-Williams, who recently launched Caribbean culture and commerce platform Jam; model and activist Winnie Harlow, who grew up visiting her Jamaican family in and around Negril; musician, actress, and singer Zuri Marley; and photographer Don Brodie, who leads contemporary Caribbean arts non-profit Forgotten Lands, a multidisciplinary platform that produces an annual volume of contemporary art dedicated to Caribbean culture and dialogue. Brodie is a first-generation Jamaican American who grew up visiting family across Jamaica and has returned again and again to Negril.
What
What to Bring
On the most practical level, start your packing list with the consideration that Jamaica is a tropical place with all the sun, rain, and critters this implies. “I travel like a girl scout,” admits Harlow. She recommends mosquito protection first and foremost. “I like to order these mosquito mats: you plug them in and they have a blue little mat that you slip into them that keeps the mosquitos out of your room, your hotel, your villa,” Harlow adds. “I’m true to this, not new to this. Jamaica is my second home, I’m always going to be prepared.”
In this same vein, sun protection and a handful of swimsuits are a must. As for apparel, “I love having a lived-in feeling because that’s what you’re getting on the beach,” Marley says, suggesting clothes that can easily move from beach to drinks to dancing. “I bring things I can wear in different, creative ways.”
James-Williams notes that sturdy flats are a must. “I like to have a really beautiful, durable flat that’s fashion-forward,” says the stylist. “Like, yes, I can do a Birkenstock, but I typically like to have a really cool printed pool slide or kitten heel.”
As for other recommendations, Marley suggests simply being comfortable. “But also, you can express yourself in Jamaica,” she adds. “Just bring yourself.”
What to Leave Behind
“Leave your high heels, leave stress, and leave high, crazy, luxury expectations,” says James-Williams. “If you’re looking for top-of-the-line luxury-luxury, I probably wouldn’t go to Negril. Negril is for more sustainable, more holistic, more wellness: I'm on the beach, I’m sitting at the cliffs, and I’m looking at beautiful views.”
Marley echoes the same sentiment. “You can leave the technology behind, honey!” she says with a grin. “Bring the suitsuit, leave the stress. You can just lay out.”
What to Keep in Mind
Don’t be too distant; the best advice is going to come from locals on the ground and the best experiences come by jumping right in.
“Get jerk off of the road,” says James-Williams. “Definitely get one of the patties from the men pushing the cart on the beach.”
“One of the most important things in Jamaica is to talk to the people,” Marley adds. “That’s where you’re going to get the best recommendations. And you have to have discernment. Recognize who’s trying to just sell you something and who’s being genuine.”
Finally, keep your ears open. “If you’re up for it, I also highly recommend cruising around with the windows down—Jamaica has its own unique soundtrack that’s definitely worth experiencing,” Brodie says.
Where
Where to Stay
No Negril recommendation list would be complete without mention of the region’s two dearly beloved sister properties, Rockhouse and Skylark.
Rockhouse, Jamaica
“Obviously, everyone knows Rockhouse is one of the most beautiful places in Negril to stay—it’s very bomb,” Harlow notes. “There are beautiful views of the ocean and there’s a jungle-y theme to the interior. But it’s still upscale.”
The 40-room property—known for hosting the Rolling Stones, Bob Marley, and Dylan over the years—is nestled against the cliffs with thatched-roof bungalows designed by a Frank Lloyd Wright protégé. Skylark, located on Negril’s white-sand Seven Mile beach, has 28 white-washed rooms and a spa seriously worth talking about. It’s Marley’s top pick.
Skylark
“I stay at Skylark, but sometimes I stay at Rockhouse,” she says. “I like to bop between the two and do all my diving over at Rockhouse. You feel like you’re one with the ocean. There’s no beach—it’s right up to the water. You dive in, the water’s clear blue. You feel like a fish. It’s the best thing ever.”
Brodie name-checks both iconic boutique hotels as special standouts. “If you can score an AirBnB along the main strip, even better,” he adds.
Harlow also has her eye on Charela Inn. “It’s a Jamaican-owned and Black-owned inn in Negril and I’ve been dying to check it out,” she says. “ It’s important to support locals when visiting Jamaica. Tourism fuels our country, but it’s amazing when the dollar can go directly into the pocket of the people.”
Charela Inn
Where to Start the Day
Marley and James-Williams both favor Rasta-Ade, which serves fresh juices and healthy Rastafarian Ital food by the water. “I love getting a natural juice, something fresh,” Marley says. “I can get coconut water [there]. It tastes so different in Jamaica; it’s the most refreshing drink.”
Rasta-Ade
Beyond Rasta Ade, Marley recommends the bottomless Blue Mountain coffee at Miss Lily’s, which is right on the beach at Skylark. Brodie and James-Williams also love Miss Lily’s for an oceanside breakfast.
Miss Lily’s
“Miss Lily’s offers the comforts of home—Wi-Fi, hot coffee, fresh juice, and a mix of Jamaican and American-style breakfast—along with a refreshing sea breeze,” Brodie says. “Yes, Miss Lily’s has locations in New York and Dubai, but those don’t compare to the abundance of local provisions at the heart of this place’s roots.”
Harlow, meanwhile, keeps it extra close to home. “Honestly, I love when my grandparents make breakfast,” she says. “My dad’s mom lives there and my mom’s parents have a house out there. I like a homemade meal, something really authentic: I love mackerel or ackee and saltfish, some bammy, some fried dumplings, some breadfruit in the morning. That is my jam. And some tropical fruit.”
Where to Eat
Marley prefers Just Natural Veggie & Seafood Restaurant and Pushcart at Rockhouse, which serves generous portions of homestyle Jamaican cuisine right up against the water.
Miss Lily’s at Skylark has become an all-around local favorite for the whole day. “The food is incredible. The beach is beautiful. There are so many places to take pictures,” says Harlow. Try the coconut shrimp and the codfish fritters, suggests Marley. “Chef’s kiss.”
Brodie likes Tip Top Surf and Turf (“If you’re lucky enough to find it open,” he says. “They tend to close early because the seafood is so fresh and runs out fast.”) and Miss Sonia’s Restaurant (try the calzone-size patties). He also recommends the locally run Flag City. “[It] feels like an authentic beachside stop, where everything is made fresh, based on the catch of the day,” he explains. “From the hands that catch and cook it to the plate in front of you, it’s a truly fresh experience. FYI, just be ready to wait—the meal takes a bit of time but often comes with good music, a dance party, and shots of rum right on the beach.”
James-Williams loves the newly opened Ethiopian spot Sador’s. “It’s the first Ethiopian restaurant in Negril,” she explains. “Really great, authentic Ethiopian from an Ethiopian family that moved to Jamaica.”
Her other pick is Murphy’s West End. “I am obsessed,” she admits. “It’s one of my favorite restaurants in Jamaica, period. He has great lobster, always. And a fun fact about the owner: when Obama was in office, he used to have chefs flown in from different islands, and Murphy was one. His sister will be taking your order, his sons will be helping place the mat. It’s a very family-driven restaurant.”
Finally, we can’t talk about the best food in any Jamaican hot spot without mentioning patties. “I have to get patties when I’m in Jamaica,” Marley says. “We have a bunch of patty franchises in Jamaica, one is called Juicy, one is called Tasty. That’s my addiction. I cannot live without my patties. I have to get it. I would say, find the nearest patty shop, and get you a patty.”
On a similar note, Brodie recommends hitting up Border Jerk on the way in or out of Negril for a “true gem” and Shamrock grocery stores for the best fresh squeezed orange juice.
Where to Shop
Negril isn’t a place for flagship luxury. The best finds will be hidden.
“Keep your eyes peeled,” Harlow says. “If you pay attention when you’re driving, you’ll find cute stuff. Little shops, people selling bags. There was this nice Rasta man the last time I went for New Year’s. I bought a really beautiful reggae calabash bag from him.”
You’ll find people selling things on the beach, Marley and James-Williams explain—and if you have an eye, there are good finds to be had. “I have friends who have found really cool soccer jerseys, jewelry, little things that make your style yours,” Marley adds. “Don’t let them sell you just anything! And definitely bargain.”
James-Williams recommends Negril Craft Market, a huge market full of locals selling artisan goods. “Go with cash and be ready to have conversations with locals,” she says. “They sell rugs. They sell beautiful figurines. They sell old Bob Marley T-shirts. I’ve had some of the best conversations with artisans there, and they’ve really inspired me.”
She also recommends the artist Nurse Signs, who will make a sign in classic Jamaican typography for you.
If you’re on the hunt for vinyl, Marley calls out the record bus, which will be parked on the other side of the hotels. “You call the number, knock, and see if he’s there. And you go crate dig,” says the musician and DJ. “I’ve found my family’s records there before. I’ve found labels that I really liked. You just don’t know what you’ll discover.”
Where to Go to the Beach and Experience Nature
Negril is known for its stunning Seven Mile beach and jaw-dropping cliffs for diving, but there is so much more to experience.
Westmoreland, Seven Mile Beach, Negril
“If you want a little off-the-beaten-path beach, check out Bloody Bay or Long Bay Beach,” says Marley. “YS Falls, Mayfield Falls, Lovers Leap, ATV’s at JamWest. Just get into the nature.”
“Take a jump at Rick’s Cafe,” says Brodie. “It’s super touristy, but it’s a rite of passage. Do it once, check it off your list, and then move on!”
Harlow suggests a visit to the botanical garden Barney’s Hummingbird Garden. “You can feed the hummingbirds,” she explains. “I think that’s a very unique experience.”
Bird sitting on branch in Barney's Hummingbird Garden, Negril, Jamaica
Marley also recommends the farm associated with Rockhouse. “I believe it’s hydroponic,” she says. “But, listen—hit up a farm. That’s one of the most important things about Jamaica. Obviously, we have beaches, but our mountains and our greenery are amazing.”
Likewise, “all over the island, you’ll find little rivers and waterfalls,” says Harlow. “That’s one thing I recommend: ask a local, can you take me to a really nice river? Or where is a small waterfall? Not just Dunn’s River Falls, but something where people go to wash their hair and watch the sky and listen to the water and the breeze.”
Where to Venture Out:
Maybe 35 minutes by car from Negril, you’ll find Blue Hole Mineral Spring, a mineral-rich cave both Brodie and Marley note as a must-visit.
If you are seeking out a special experience and traveling from Negril back to Kingston, Harlow suggests Vital Frequency Retreat, a private residence hosting holistic retreats throughout the year. “You can stay there, do yoga, they teach you breathwork,” Harlow explains. “You do all vegan food. If they were cooking for me for the rest of my life, I could be vegan. Some of my favorite things are oxtail, stew peas, and rice which is made with pigtail; they make all of that, but vegan. It’s a good refresh for your body and soul.”
Where to Unwind
Jamaica has a strong wellness culture, and top-quality massages and spiritually attuned offerings can be found throughout the island.
“Jamaica is great for spa treatments—wherever you stay, you’ll be able to ask for recommendations,” Harlow explains. “They usually have people who will come to you. They’re really good for on-call.”
James-Williams calls out the yoga at Skylark and the psilocybin sound bath at Rockhouse for moments of reconnection. Rockhouse also has “really beautiful baths overlooking the ocean,” she says, adding. “I like the massages at Rockhouse because they do it on one of the cliffs.”
The boutique hotel Tensing Pen also has fantastic wellness options, notes Marley.
Where to Grab a Cocktail (or a Smoke)
Options are seemingly never-ending for bars throughout the island, but Marley recommends “a drink [that’s] not a drink,” Chill Pops. “They have alcoholic popsicles,” she explains. “They use only real ingredients, no weird shit, and it’s all so good. You can get real Jamaican flavors. They might have June plum, or pine and ginger. I would probably take the homies there.”
James-Williams likes a casual bar crawl down Seven Mile Beach and the coffee shop Pasties, which serves ganja ice cream and coffee by the beach. “It’s so peaceful,” she says. “It’s something a family put together. That’s what makes it pretty magical. It doesn’t have to have a lot of bells and whistles.”
Harlow calls out the coffee shop Wake N Bake Café, which serves up coffee, cookies and brownies—“all infused with the flower of the island,” she notes. “It’s really cute. It has the essence of Jamaica.”
Where to Dance and Stay Up Late
One special experience worth traveling around is the four-day music festival Dream Weekend on Seven Mile Beach, which takes place every year in August. “I’ve gone eight times, I absolutely love Dream Weekend,” says Harlow, explaining that each day has two themed parties, one during the day and one at night. “My favorite party at Dream Weekend is Wet and Wild. They hold it at the water park. You get to be a big kid again—you’re throwing water balloons and running around with water guns.”
Marley also loves Treasure Beach, which is a small trip from Negril, for “really cool bars and really cool festivals.”
“The truth is, in Jamaica, we have the most bars and the most churches of any country,” Marley says. “Every block, there’s a bar. So there’s always music. Where’s a place in Negril specifically that I go for music? I can’t say because you’d be driving and I’d hear something and you’d stop, you’d grab a drink, you’d dance. You listen for the music and you follow it.”
When to Visit
While Jamaica is hotter in the summer and typically rainier in winter, the country is beautiful all year-around. “Just check the weather during hurricane season,” says Marlow. Brodie, meanwhile, recommends a trip during mango season and Negril for New Year’s. “The whole beach transforms into one big celebration, with lanterns and bonfires lighting up the night,” he says. “It’s the perfect environment to set your intentions and make wishes for the year ahead. The first day of the year is always a blast, surrounded by Jamaica’s natural beauty and abundance.”
Why
Negril has an incredibly rich history and remains a truly beautiful natural gem.
“It’s said that the Beatles used to just walk around and many Rastas settled there for the chill vibes,” Marley notes.
“Between Negril and maybe Ocho Rios, those are my favorite places on the island,” Harlow says. “If you’re looking for pristine beaches, greenery, and the essence of ‘island,’ Negril holds a lot of that.”
It’s also the ideal place to unwind and disconnect, say Marley and James-Williams. “Negril is off the beaten path,” James-Williams adds. “It’s so nice when you don’t have every form of communication with people. Where you have to go find the magic.”