The Insider’s Guide to Lisbon

Ever wish you could text the most stylish people in the world to ask them for their lists of things to do in the places they know best? Here are insider travel tips for those who would never be caught dead in a tourist trap. Bon voyage!

Who

Four local Lisbon tastemakers unveil their favorite spots across the coastal Portuguese capital, a city famed for its crystalline light, soul-warming seafood, and hilly topography. Our insiders — each possessing a longstanding connection to the city — are Carminho, acclaimed singer of the city’s traditional fado music; Benjamin Gonthier, founder and director of Galeria Foco; Daniela Franceschini, founder and director of interior design group Quiet Studios; and Sylwia Cylwik, founder and curator of concept store and showroom Kintu Studio.

What

What to Bring

Lisbon is known for its uniquely bright light, a product of its perpetually sunny weather, the reflective nature of the Tagus River, and the city’s white limestone facades. To protect your eyes, our insiders stress the need for sunglasses.

Non-slip shoes are also vital, “due to the slippery nature of the Portuguese pavement, known as calçada,” explains Gonthier. “Lisbon is fondly nicknamed the city of seven hills,” says Franceschini. Rubber soles are doubly good for traction up the notoriously steep inclines.

Lastly, even during warmer seasons, a sweater is nice to have after the sun goes down. “Lisbon is situated beside the Atlantic ocean,” explains Franceschini, “so expect a fresh breeze throughout the year.”

What to Leave Behind

Unsurprisingly, stilettos don’t have much of a place here. “Only the bravest Lisboetas can be seen wearing them,” warns Cylwik. For Carminho, new leather soles are off the table too — still too slippery. Gonthier encourages packing in smaller luggage, “as some buildings lack elevators and streets can be narrow and inaccessible by car,” he explains. Large rental cars are ill-advised for the same reasons. While they’ll be okay for driving through the expansive countryside, entering the city can be tricky due to limited parking and tight central streets.

What to Keep in Mind

Try your damndest not to confuse Spanish and Portuguese. “Say obrigada instead of gracias, and everyone will be very kind to you,” says Cylwik. And remember to gender the term, says Franceschini — if you identify as a man, you end with an “o” and say obrigado. If you identify as a woman, you end with an “a” and say obrigada. When it comes to getting around, exploring by foot will always be best. Gonthier advises you skip the tuk-tuks to avoid “a theme park atmosphere.” In lieu of Google Maps, Cylwik likes to use the app Moovit as a transit guide — “it provides all the hours and possible routes,” he says. When you’ve tired of walking the hills, Franceschini recommends Uber and Bolt, both far cheaper than in bigger cities like London or Paris, and great for accessing the beaches of Caparica, which are twenty minutes from the city center. A note on music etiquette from Carminho: during a fado set, the iconic musical show of Lisbon, it’s important to remain very silent during the evocative, emotional shows. Murmurings “might be punished with a harsh ‘shhh,’” she warns.

Where

Where to Stay

Gonthier is partial to Torel Palace Lisbon, an “exquisite” palace in the heart of the city offering staggering city views, lush surroundings, and a fantastic swimming pool.

Palácio do Governador is Carminho’s pick. The hotel is located in an old palace full of ornate detailing by the river in the city’s relaxed Belém district, and is home to a “cozy and charming spa.”

Franceschini's top three are The Santa Clara 1728, perched in the hills of Graça with views of the river, the Pantheon, and overlooking bustling flea markets and coffee shops below; The Bairro Alto Hotel, a central location with a secret rooftop brunch with stunning views; and The Ivens Hotel, not just a wonderful, high-end hotel but a great stop for cocktails, snacks, and decadent design.

Cylwik’s favorite is The Lumiares, also possessing excellent rooftop views, and art-lined The Vintage for their delicious cocktails and richly-appointed interiors.

Where to Start the Day

Lisbon’s breakfast tradition is vibrant and longstanding, full of coffee multiple ways, baked goods, and much local chatter. Gonthier’s top spots are Clara Clara Café, a charming locale to enjoy a tosta clara (goat cheese toast) and a galão (caffé latte), and Put in On Lisbon for their delicious vegan cakes. Carminho likes to begin the day with a traditional abatanado, “a long black coffee, one of the 15 ways to drink coffee in Lisbon,” and some local pastries at the old world establishments Pastelaria Benard or Pastelaria Versailles.

She recommends ordering the traditional pastel de nata, the iconic egg custard filled pastry, or some crunchy, sugar-lacquered palmiers. Franchescini’s top three spots are Magnolia, perfect for a fresh coffee in front of the city’s buzzy square Praça Das Flores, the Sao Bento neighborhood café Sao for fresh pastries, and Pao de Beco, “an artisanal bakery using slow fermentation to make delicious breads.”

For al fresco dining “surrounded by mulberry trees,” Cylwik likes the garden in Amoreiras for a hearty tosta mista, Portugal’s signature grilled ham and cheese sandwich and coffee. Another favorite of hers is Cafe Monka for their original creations. Her order? “A sandwich with fresh white cheese, pickled cucumber, and warm spices.”

Where to Eat

Traditional Portuguese restaurants, which serve fresh fish and grilled meat in homey settings, are fondly known as tascas. Pure seafood restaurants are known as marisqueiras, where one might finish their beach day with “a glass of white wine and a warm bowl of Portuguese clams — ameijoas,” explains Francheschini. Within these traditional categories, Carminho recommends nostalgic Café do Paço for the best steak “Portuguese style,” served with a special cream sauce, an egg on top, and spinach puree. The meat croquet with mustard is her go-to appetizer. Zapata, “a family-run business that serves up a tasty octopus with açorda,” is where Cylwik goes for the old school feel.

On the more contemporary end, Carminho’s pick is Misc By Tartar-ia, for “the best tartars (meat and fish) of the city.” Her tip: try sitting near one of the open windows to feel the vibe of the street. Francheschini has recently fallen for a spot in Lisbon’s Arroios neighborhood called Garrincha: “The Chef, Adam Denis, makes delicious, unique dishes from high quality produce that I haven’t seen anywhere else. You can’t leave without trying the Labneh Sorbet!” she shares.

Cylwik’s picks are Lero Lero, “a cozy pizza spot with a good selection of natural wine,” and Oficio Tasco Atipico for its beautiful interiors and “the best cheesecake in town.” Gonthier is partial to Estrela da Bica, which serves “Portuguese cuisine infused with the chefs' travel inspirations, all in a delightful cozy setting,” as well as A'Paranza Tasca Italiana for Italian seafood (“don’t miss their signature dishes like spaghetti with clams and mullet roe, or their exquisite codfish carpaccio”).

He also points to Carvoaria Jacto for meat lovers (must-try: the Aged Beef Sirloin Steak), Tasca Pete for small shared plates in a cozy atmosphere, and lastly, Palacio do Grilo, where one dines inside a live theater, for dinner and a show: “an unparalleled blend of cuisine and performance.”

Where to Shop

Both Carminho and Gonthier are fans of A Vida Portuguesa, a line of beautiful shops specializing in traditional and vintage Portuguese products like ceramics, stationary, basketry, textiles, and more — “It’s the perfect place to buy souvenirs from the city.”

Another crowd favorite is Feira da Ladra. Literally translating to “market of the thieves,” the famous Alfama neighborhood flea market “is a perfect way to spend a Saturday morning,” according to Francheschini. For more pre-loved finds, Gonthier also frequents Retro City, a vintage shop offering “a fantastic selection of clothes” in the Anjos neighborhood. Skinlife Boutique is where Cylwik shops for niche perfumes and cosmetics. For inspiring independent design, she’s a fan of Lidija Kolovrat.

Where to Look at Art

Gonthier’s Galeria Foco, which promotes local and international artists across various media, makes for a dynamic contemporary visit. He recommends the app Contemporânea for up-to-date information on cultural exhibitions and an events calendar, spotlighting venues such as MAAT Museum, CBB, and the Gulbenkian Foundation, which is a beloved spot for all our tastemakers. “It’s a magical place to spend time,” says Carminho, “it includes a museum, an arts center with an orchestra and choir, an art library and archive, and a scientific research institute. Also you have a beautiful park where you can walk and see different species of flora and some fauna.”

Franceschini likes “to sneak away there and enjoy a picnic or lunch in the sun during the week,” noting the building’s art deco heritage and incredible art library. For more of a hidden gem, she notes Barracuda Interiors for design lovers and collectors, “they curate some of the best antiques and original pieces of Portuguese craftsmanship all in one unique showroom tucked behind the Principe Real neighborhood.”

Cylwik shares some more craft-focused destinations: the Museu Nacional do Azulejo, showcasing the history of tiles, Mono Lisboa, an art residency with dynamic exhibitions and performances, and Pada, “a large industrial space turned art workspace showcasing artists in residence each month.”

Where to Unwind

“The main pros of Lisbon are its weather and outdoorsy life,” says Carminho, who takes advantage of the idyllic climate through outdoor yoga, a popular Lisbon wellness regime practiced in gardens across the city. Gonthier connects with the great outdoors along the riverside, which is “perfect for running, cycling, yoga, or a workout, stretching 13 km from Expo 98 to Belém.” He’s also a frequent visitor of Academia Life Club Santos, where one can train outdoors “with a great view,” or enjoy the sauna and swimming pool. Cylwik unwinds with dance classes at Jazzy Dance Studio. “It's fun and you can choose your preferred dance style and time,” she shares. “I highly recommend Salsa with Roberto!”

Where to Get Some Fresh Air

Lisbon’s wealth of gardens, parks, and viewpoints, called miradouros, all make for excellent alfresco enclaves. Franceschini favors the dynamic Jardim da Estrela, good for people watching and “lazing in the shade on a sunny day with a book,” and Jardim do Torel for sweeping views of the city — “a great gathering point to meet friends for a drink at the end of a summer day.” Cylwik frequents the tranquil, dog-friendly garden in Cacilhas, “near a place called Ponto Final, offering a stunning view of Lisbon from the other side of the river.”

For those with two wheels, she recommends biking to Belém, taking the ferry to Trafaria, then biking to the beach or Cascais for picturesque views. Gonthier urges a visit to Jardim Tapada das Necessidades, an expansive garden hidden in the city, where a climb to the top reveals a cactus dotted viewpoint over the 25 de Abril Bridge; the peaceful Casa da Cerca Garden, located on the other side of the river; Miradouro Monte Agudo for breathtaking sunset views, “best enjoyed with a drinks from Simo's Quiosque;” and Champalimaud Foundation for its unique architecture and dramatic sundowners.

Where to Have a Cocktail

Carminho takes her tipples at Procópio, an intimate art nouveau style bar, and Imprensa, an oyster bar with excellent drinks in the Principe Real district featuring great happy hours and good for a pre or post dinner hang. Gonthier’s a fan of O Pif wine bar in the Anjos neighborhood, offering a beautiful selection of small Portuguese producers carefully curated by its wine connoisseur founder, Adélaide Biret. Francheschini has three in her rotation: Vino Vero, Magnolia and Insaciavel — all possess great wine selections with “playful, laid back” atmospheres.

And for one of a kind cocktails and warm focaccia, “Liquid Love is a must,” she says. Cylwik’s loyal to Passevite, “a tiny art gallery with a bar and small patio that sometimes hosts jazz concerts.”

Where to Stay Up Late

Lux Frágil is an iconic institution in Lisbon “renowned for its great resident DJs and vibrant nightlife,” says Gonthier. For something a bit more underground, he spotlights Outra Cena. “A recent addition to the club scene,” adds Franchescini, “booking international artists set in a decadent space — a former warehouse in the Marvila district.”

For something a bit more unconventional, Gonthier likes Gala Cri Cri, for a quirky night of dancing inside Palacio do Grilo. Carminho, true to her profession, mainly frequents fado houses. Mesa de Frades, where she sang for several years, is a small, authentic spot in the heart of the Alfama neighborhood (one of the birthplaces of fado). You can choose to dine there or just have drinks, amongst the majority Portuguese audience. Another beautiful option is O Faia in the neighborhood of Bairro Alto (the other birthplace of fado), for “incredible food in a historical building, frequented by the best fadistas of the latest generations.” Lastly, she presents Tasca do Chico, very “low profile,” and good for a drink and some chouriço (a kind of Portuguese pork sausage). On Sundays, Cylwik loves Boteco da Dri by the river, for Brazilian music. Another two favorites for her are Cosmos Campolide, an artsy, hidden gem where you can play pool and listen to the city's up-and-coming DJs, and Sala Lisa for its “cool vibe.”

When

Per our locals, June unveils Lisbon at its best. It’s when the traditional summer festivities begin, like the annual saints celebrations, Santos Populares. “Residents take to the streets throughout June to grill sardines, dance to traditional Portuguese pimba music and celebrate the beginning of summer. It’s a city wide event and each neighborhood goes to great lengths to decorate their street in carnations and garlands,” says Francheschini. “It's a very joyful time,” adds Gonthier.

Why

For Franceschini, the city possesses a mystical pull. “People come, they leave, and for some reason, can’t shake the feeling of the soul of the city. They almost always return, whether to live, or visit, or simply pass through.” This intoxicating power, to her, is something every traveler must experience. “Life here has a unique flavor,” echoes Cylwik. “It's a European capital that feels like a small town where everyone knows each other. Life is slower, people are kind, and the sky is incredibly blue.”