All the Best Looks From the NYFW Fall 2019 Collections
Who is Tomo Koizumi? Good question. It’s been a question on the lips of every editor since seeing his couture-like Loofah cocktail dresses in the basement of the uptown Marc Jacobs store last Friday evening. New York Fashion Week got off to a fairly relaxing start with Tom Ford, which heralded the return of ’00s supermodel Caroline Trentini to the runway, and then came the tulle. It was W‘s Contributing Fashion Creative Director Katie Grand who found Koizumi on Instagram. The Japanese designer, with Grand’s help, created quite a splash with Rowan Blanchard opening the show, Bella Hadid walking, and a creative team any emerging designer would die for (Pat McGrath, Guido Palau), and everyone from VIPs to assistants crammed into the nooks and crannies of the store’s basement to catch a glimpse of Koizumi’s beautifully constructed rainbow tulle. It’s not too much to say his show was the talk of the town—and we were not even halfway through NYFW. With favorite labels Brandon Maxwell and Proenza Schouler, as well as upstarts Area and Vaquera, still to come, there was a plethora of both chic and boundary-pushing looks to take in throughout the rest of New York Fashion Week. Now, at its conclusion, we’ve rounded up some of our favorites.
1Rodarte
Showing on the west coast only a handful of days before the Oscars, one can hardly blame the Mulleavy sisters for offering up ’80s-tinged red carpet tulle confections. With so many bows, hearts, and tulle, it was nice to see this (almost paired-down in comparison) color-blocked look with flamenco ruffles and floral appliqué.
2Alexander Wang
Don’t forget that Alexander Wang actually presented his Fall collection back in December. It was a collection chock full of Wang-isms: leather, lace, sport, boxer shorts, prep. Topped off with just out of the shower towel wraps and luxe logo garment bags, it was a fun collection that Wang fans are sure to embrace.
3Tom Ford
While many will obsess over the colorful furry hats, there’s something special about knowing the hoodies, leather jackets, and leather pants Tom Ford showed are probably some of the most luxurious staples one can get their hands on today—and with a front row packed full with athletes, socialites, and jetsetters, we wouldn’t be surprised if those classic pieces are the ones the clients invest in.
4Rachel Comey
The Rachel Comey show was a pure delight for the casting, and of course the clothes. With women of all ages, shapes, and backgrounds, one never felt that Comey was trying to check off boxes—all of the women walking today could have easily been her chic and artful customers, and we would have been none the wiser. This oversized orange-hued shearling drove the point home: it doesn’t matter your age, it’s about your attitude and perspective on getting dressed.
5Khaite
In what was arguably the chicest outing of New York Fashion Week (enchanting arrangements with autumnal branches, check; delicious martinis, check; gorgeous clothes, check), Catherine Holstein presented her first runway show for her burgeoning brand Khaite. The line is rooted in giving women elegant separates for day, and this look is perhaps the epitome of what they will want for fall. They’ll also be after her brand-new collection of accessories, especially the oversized tote we spotted on the runway.
6Nanushka
Nanushka, the influencer-beloved Instagram friendly label from Hungary, has been quietly making waves for a few seasons during New York Fashion Week. Many guests at the label’s presentation sported Nanushka vegan leather tops, pants, or jackets. With the debut of men’s this season, now more people can get in on the fun. Come next fall, we’ll be sure to see devotees sporting this relaxed trench, mini bag, or even those keylime greed fluffy shoes.
7Brock Collection
The femininity found in the tiered skirts, flouncy Liberty-print dresses, and corsets created by the duo behind Brock Collection is infectious; so many show-goers were dressed head-to-toe in pretty tea dresses from previous seasons. Sometimes it’s nice to see something that counters Brock’s girly-ness, and this season, the equestrian-style jackets did just that.
8Tomo Koizumi
Who is Tomo Koizumi? Good question. Koizumi is a Japanese designer who has only been in New York for the last week, at the invite of W‘s Contributing Fashion Creative Director, Katie Grand, who found him on Instagram and who helped him organize his debut show at New York Fashion Week. And what a debut it was. With Rowan Blanchard opening the show, Bella Hadid walking, and a creative team any emerging designer would die for (Pat McGrath, Guido Palau), Koizumi’s beautifully constructed rainbow tulle concoctions were the belle of the ball.
9Brandon Maxwell
While much of Brandon Maxwell’s fall collection was his signature black and white, with silhouettes ranging from pencil skirts to a loose knit over a ball skirt, one couldn’t help but feel joyful as Grace Elizabeth came down the runway in this fuchsia finale look.
10Eckhaus Latta
There was a lot to love about Eckhaus Latta’s fall outing. Nice tailoring, even in denim, cozy shearlings, as well as color blocked knits. This dress may be the more retail-friendly version of this concept, but the crop top with cut-outs and skirt version looked pretty cool on Paloma Elsesser.
11Area
If there’s one thing you’d say about Area, it’s that the label is certainly not boring. In a sea of clothing shown at New York Fashion Week, some of which you feel like you already own, and some of which you may not care to, it’s nice to see a young label marching to their own, albeit very sparkly, drum. This tie-dye look felt fun and playful, as did an distressed cable knit sweater (with crystals) and the gingham separates. Much like the crystal earrings they’re known for, these headpieces could easily become the next ‘It’ piece from the brand. in fact, one girl was already spotted wearing it to Alexander Wang’s party on Saturday night.
12Michael Kors
For Michael Kors, the ’70s are back in a big way – big like Studio 54, Patti Hansen big. Both made runway appearances, the former splashed across t-shirts and the latter closing out the show. Barry Manilow was there too for good measure, singing Copacobana. Among all of the decade’s inspired shearings and faux furs, disco dresses, and Kors fall staples (like great wool coats, suiting, and knits) were a few quieter looks. These seemed to have been inspired by the ballet, which the nude and blush tones, and the shoes, pointed to. Never one to be a complete minimalist, an extra dash of feather’s on Dilone’s dress made sure she fit right in at an epic Studio 54 party, or simply a Michael Kors disco show at 10:30 in the morning.
13Vaquera
Towards the end of fashion week, most editors are thinking about home – their beds more specifically – and it looks like the designers behind Vaquera are thinking the same thing. Much of the collection tied back to the home, and our favorites were the voluminous pillow case dresses, complete with ruffles.
14CDLM
Chris Peters, of CDLM and Creatures of the Wind, and Shane Gabier of Creatures of the Wind, joined forces to show both collections (yes, its very confusing) together in Brooklyn. At the end of the day, what walked the runway were cool easy separates, all in up-cycled and reusable fabrications, like this trench coat and white jean. Another surprise on the runway? Vogue’s esteemed editor Tonne Goodman, making what is believed to be her runway debut.
15Oscar de la Renta
While there were still fanciful gowns, like a head-to-toe white feather dress and Bella Hadid’s closing look, that would have made Oscar himself very proud, the brand’s younger clientele will be clamoring for the easy-to-wear carpet-inspired wrap dresses.
16Coach 1941
We’ve come to rely upon Coach 1941 for great shearling coats, faux furs, and sturdy yet chic weather-appropriate boots. However, it is hard to resist Stuart Vevers’ flirty and happy floral cocktail dresses, as worn by Adesuwa Aighewi.
17Gabriela Hearst
On a day when the weather was vacillating between snow and hail, it was so comforting to walk into Gabriela Hearst’s show to find a smorgasbord of comfort foods and a heavenly array of woolen knitwear.
18Proenza Schouler
Sometimes, a slight twist on a classic is all you need to encourage women to buy something new. In this case, it’s a classic trench with a color-blocking update. The split-leg pants and square-toe shoes offered up new suggestions for how to get dressed in the morning.
19The Row
Many editors walked out of The Row show simply saying, “That was perfect.” And indeed it was. The tailoring was on point, with slightly longer than necessary proportions reading as chic and elegant. There was also something enticing about the gauzy turtlenecks layered underneath—standing upright, they seemed to protect the wearer from the world.
20Rosie Assoulin
While so much of Rosie Assoulin’s fall collection was utterly wearable (a chunky knit, easy plaids and ginghams, suiting and shirtdresses) we still fall hard for her utterly romantic evening wear. We could see a super-cool bride opting to forgo traditional white to get married in this watercolor dream.
21Tory Burch
Tory Burch’s floral dresses came in punched-up orange hues for fall. Over the frocks were practical and chic coats—shearlings, wool robe coats, you name it—leaving showgoers with many options for weather-appropriate dressing come fall.
22Ryan Roche
The woman wearing Ryan Roche’s laid-back luxe is self-assured and as comfortable in her own skin as she is Roche’s minimalist, creamy cashmere clothing. For fall 2019, men can also now cash in on Roche’s knit prowess, as quite a few full looks were created for and shown on men.
23Carolina Herrera
The swinging sixties silhouette on a handful of Wes Gordon’s cocktail dresses were the winners of his brightly-hued collection for Carolina Herrera. Though the dresses may skew young, the appliqué work still shows the craftsmanship and beauty of the storied brand, whose founder sat front row.
24Jason Wu Collection
Proving feathers are still a thing, this cocktail frock from Jason Wu Collection’s presentation was charming and elegant, an essential for a special occasion.
25Marc Jacobs
To see Christy Turlington take to the runway again, especially at a Marc Jacobs show, is truly something special. For his fall 2019 collection, Jacobs was still interested in size and volume, but there was a delicate nature to his work, much of which included feathers.