References to the ’80s have always come easily to menswear designer Robert Geller, so it came as little surprise when “Sunday Bloody Sunday,” a track from U2’s seminal 1983 album War, emerged from the speakers as models in his Fall 2017 collection began to file down the runway. Though Geller described himself after the show as not especially political, the collection marked his foray into a more overtly activist stance—”I feel like now’s the time to speak up,” he said. Inspired by themes of protest, Geller’s Fall 2017 show juggled both an undeniable anger and a softer, more romantic energy. It featured utilitarian camouflage, albeit in lovely shades of eggplant and mulberry, rather than the traditional army green, with ski masks and combat boots—the designer’s latest collaboration with Common Projects. Military details also abounded — many models wore epaulettes strapped over their hoodies and jackets. And, in keeping with the theme of the soundtrack (after “Sunday Bloody Sunday,” it moved into a medley that also included “New Year’s Day” — protest songs, all of them), the word “War” was emblazoned down the sleeves of many of the looks. At the end of it all, the designer himself emerged in a graphic tee. His shirt, though, read “Immigrant.”