As summer comes to an end, it’s time to look to the coming fall—and what better way to do so than a peek at the best fashion of the upcoming season? We may not have back to school these days, but now more than ever, there’s a case to be made for updating your closet come Labor Day. And we aren’t talking a new pair of jeans or basic sweater (though, by all means, throw those in, as well). This season, it’s all about the extremes. From Pierpaolo Piccioli’s extravagant take on the Moncler puffer to Tomo Koizumi‘s organza explosion, these are the season’s most elevated looks that are heads above the rest. Here, a look at the best of the best, as modeled by another industry best: Raquel Zimmermann.
1
Couture and craft come together for the latest Moncler Genius collaboration, in which Pierpaolo Piccioli worked with traditional Ethiopian patterns courtesy of Liya Kebede’s Lemlem.
1 Moncler Pierpaolo Piccioli gown; Atsuko Kudo gloves; Sies Marjan shoes.
2
Things are looking rosy for Kei Ninomiya, whose signature scrunching technique appears in full bloom.
Noir Kei Ninomiya dress; Stephen Jones for Marc Jacobs hat; Budd Shirtmakers socks; Atsuko Kudo stockings; Schiaparelli Haute Couture shoes.
3
Big bows, smart tailoring, and a nearly ubiquitous double-F logo that he created in the ’80s—his swan song collection for Fendi was classic Karl Lagerfeld.
Fendi dress; Marc Jacobs earrings; Maison Gerbe Paris 1904 tights; Roger Vivier shoes.
4
Anthony Vaccarello plays it cool at Saint Laurent with a broad-shouldered take on the traditional power suit.
Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello blazer, pants, and boots; Dr Noki’s NHS T-shirt and necklace; Budd Shirtmakers socks. Beauty note: Take a shot in the dark. Nars Satin Lipstick in Opulent Red delivers full-coverage color in a single swipe.
5
In his final collection for Schiaparelli, the designer Bertrand Guyon relied on bold strokes of creative whimsy—like Schiap herself.
Schiaparelli Haute Couture coatdress; Atsuko Kudo top, leggings, and gloves; Prada boots.
6
The message for Marc Jacobs is clear: The bigger, the better, especially when it’s be-feathered.
Marc Jacobs dress, underskirt, hairpins, tights, and shoes; Stephen Jones for Marc Jacobs hat.
7
Make way for Richard Quinn’s megasize party frocks. Wallflowers need not apply.
Richard Quinn caftan; Stephen Jones for Marc Jacobs hat; Atsuko Kudo gloves.
8
Inspired by the work of the glam-rock costumer Larry Legaspi, Rick Owens’s postapocalyptic vision has been infused with a little space oddity.
Rick Owens top.
9
Filled with sublime tailoring and airy alpine sensibilities, Karl Lagerfeld’s last collection for Chanel hit a high note.
Chanel cape, blouse, pants, and boots; Dr Noki’s NHS necklace (in hand).
10
Alexander McQueen’s Sarah Burton takes us on a tour of Britain—from its rose gardens to its rock scene, and all the dark glamour in between.
Alexander McQueen dress; Atsuko Kudo gloves and leggings; vintage Vivienne Westwood shoes from the archive of Steven Philip.
11
Balenciaga’s Demna Gvasalia has gone full Gallic chic with sharp tailoring and cocoon silhouettes from the archives.
Balenciaga coat, blouse, jeans, and boots.
12
With Lady Gaga’s “Bad Romance” as both the soundtrack and theme, Miuccia Prada gave lovely clothes a good dose of grit.
Prada jacket, skirt, and bag; Atsuko Kudo gloves and leggings; vintage Vivienne Westwood shoes from the archive of Steven Philip.
13
Hermès designer Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski reworks leather every which way to create clothes that are both classic and modern.
Hermès sleeveless coat and sweater; Stephen Jones for Marc Jacobs hat; Schiaparelli Haute Couture sunglasses.
14
The spirit of Britain’s postwar Teddy Girls informed Maria Grazia Chiuri’s proudly feminist Dior collection.
Dior bodysuit and boots; Marc Jacobs hair combs; Maison Gerbe Paris 1904 tights.
15
Tomo Koizumi exploded onto the fashion scene this year with a parade of colorful organza poufs.
Tomo Koizumi jacket, skirt, leggings, bow, gloves, and train; Marc Jacobs hairpin.
16
Matty Bovan, the British designer’s mad assemblage of materials may be homespun, but it’s all about elegance and flair.
Matty Bovan jacket and pants; Prada shirt; Stephen Jones for Coach x Matty Bovan hat; vintage tie from Cenci Vintage, London; vintage belt; Budd Shirtmakers socks; Gina for Coach x Matty Bovan shoes.
