Valentino Fall 2025 Explores the In-Between of Dressing Up (and Down)
Valentino’s fall 2025 collection was dripping with creative director Alessandro Michele’s maximalist magpie aesthetic, plus a dose of time-worn house codes. Titled “Le Méta-Théâtre Des Intimités,” the show on Sunday in Paris was heavily fueled by a more-is-more mantra, with piled-on layers and mondo accessories like jewelry and hats creating various personas—both old and new—of the Michele universe.
The venue had a slick, cherry-red set that resembled a high school bathroom, but with a Lynchian twist. Models started the show by simultaneously stepping out of stalls, then walking the runway to flashing lights before returning to the sink for a quick touch-up in the mirror.
A mix of Lana del Rey’s Gods & Monsters played while lace bodysuits, big baubles, and patterned head scarves were on full display. Pieces ran the gamut from casual-informal to red carpet-level glam. Underpinnings were visible in some cases; in others, models were completely covered up from head-to-toe, even donning sunglasses and balaclavas.
Michele focused on ideas of intimacy, expression, and public versus protected spaces. The designer called his work “a temporarily autonomous space, free from the codification of norms, proudly political because it can subvert any rigid, binary classification.”
Accessories played a huge part in creating characters. But they also aided in transforming, hiding, and revealing. “We should know: no intimacy can ultimately undress us, no veil can be torn to put us before our true self,” Michele stated in the show notes. “Because the idea that there's an authentic self, untouched by life and its determinations, is misleading.”
Big sunglasses paired with tight little hoods gave a chic, incognito feel. Baggy coats, jeans, and strapless nightgown dresses were styled over red lace. Spliced maxi dresses in contrasting red and black or red and white had a pop art feel against the dramatic set. Other looks were all about being on display—proudly. One white sequin gown had a cat face on it. An older model wore a completely sheer lace dress, braless. Geeky aviator glasses, pill box hats, XL peplums, leopard print suits, and cascades of lace formed an over-the-top reverie of dressing up for dressing up’s sake.
Still, perhaps the biggest statement from Valentino fall 2025 was the power (and mileage) one can get out of a single statement accessory. With 80 looks in the show, Valentino’s biggest fans are certainly spoiled for choice this season. Come fall, will you align with massive chunky necklaces, super-wide cloth headbands or the geek-chic glasses? All have the ability to reveal—or conceal.
