Everything to Know About Tom Ford’s Spring 2023 NYFW Show

It’s been a week full of celebratory shows, emerging designer showcases, and glitzy parties, as New York Fashion Week truly feels like it’s back to pre-pandemic times. Tom Ford closed out the spring 2023 collections in New York with a hotly anticipated show downtown. Here are five things you need to know about the runway, its models, and, of course, the star-studded front row:

The Collection Felt Like a Swan Song

In July, it was reported that Tom Ford hired Goldman Sachs to explore a potential sale. Since then, the industry has been speculating that spring 2023 may be the last Tom Ford runway show with the man behind the brand at the helm. That may be true—if the music was any indication. Freddie Mercury’s “time waits for nobody” lyrics wailed over the speakers as glitzy ’80s-inspired pieces that embodied Ford’s aesthetic throughout the years were on view.

As for the grand finale, there was no final walk. Instead, just one model closed the show wearing a floor-length gold and silver turtleneck gown, her hair braided into an intricate crown-like style. As she walked down the runway, she held a small bouquet of gilded roses. Additionally, according to the brand, there were purposely no show notes at all this season. As the last official show of New York Fashion Week—and perhaps a final chapter of an iconic American brand—there was a feeling of emotion and closure in the air. But it also felt a message: if Tom Ford is leaving, he’s going out with a party.

The ‘80s Influence Was Effervescent

There were sequins and ‘80s music–and lots of both. The show opened up with a silver metallic blazer thrown over a sheer bikini top with glitter stars on it. On the bottom, there were baggy knee-length shorts covered in glittering star and heart motifs. Next came fishnet tops encrusted with chunky crystal jewels paired with low-slung metallic pants. From sporty hot shorts to shiny tracksuits and pastel Western fringe jackets and quilted leather jackets for men, the rich ‘80s aesthetic was palpable in every single piece. Robert Palmer’s “Addicted to Love” played while Liberace-like hot pants and crystal cascaded jackets made their debut.

House (and Fordian) Codes Ruled

Of course, Ford also showed the more demure side of the brand, with softly tailored suits for men here, and a silky set there. A few grabby moments felt particularly referential not just to the Tom Ford brand, but to the overall body of work from Ford, when he worked at Gucci–take, for example, the lacy lingerie and thongs paired with croc-like oversized leather jackets.

(Gucci G-string, anyone?) The look was one that could have been ripped directly from one of the Ford’s (for his namesake brand, or Gucci) iconically sleazy early 2000s campaigns, too.

The Front Was Star-Studded…and Intriguing

Madonna, Erykah Badu, Ciara, Lila Moss, and N​​icola and Brooklyn Peltz-Beckham all sat front row at the show. Evan Mock, Dove Cameron, Chris Rock, Katie Holmes, Russell Westbrook, Lourdes Leon, Shalom Harlow, Karlie Kloss, Nicole Ritchie, and Taylor Hill were also there. As Tom Ford is up for sale, the show felt like an intimate celebration. Of course, there were also a few new faces in the audience—perhaps a hint at what is to come. According to the Wall Street Journal, as of just last month, Estée Lauder Companies is in talks to buy Tom Ford, in a deal for at least $3 billion. And sitting front row next to one of the industry’s most well-known fashion critics was also Estée Lauder Companies president and chief executive officer Fabrizio Freda.

Bella and Gigi Hadid Closed the Show

An all-star cast walked the runway, including Gigi and Bella Hadid, who each were adorned with glittering, sequin disco ball dresses and matching ginormous hoop earrings. Liya Kebede and Joan Smalls wore a black sarong-style dress with knee-high metallic leather boots. Mariacarla Boscono donned one of the finale looks—she dripped in lilac sequins as she strutted down the runway. The cast of models was clearly as bright and bold as the collection, and represented a slice of the fashion house’s favorites over the years.