At Saint Laurent, Sleek Tubular Dresses and a Starry Front Row

Paris Fashion Week is finally in full swing—and Saint Laurent’s show is always one that feels decadently Parisian, taking place each year beneath the glittering lights of the Eiffel Tower. This season, the label hosted a more intimate presentation than in seasons past, and gleaned inspiration directly from the archives, with incredibly chic twists. Here’s everything you need to know about the house’s spectacular spring 2023 show.

The Show Took Inspiration From House Codes

If there was one element that defined Saint Laurent’s entire spring 2023 collection, it was the silky, tubular hood that came elegantly attached to nearly every single look. According to the fashion house, the image has appeared in its archives over and over again, from the chiffon dresses made in collaboration with Claude Lalanne in 1969 to the slinky fabric hoods of the label’s haute couture 1985 collection, and even Yves Saint Laurent’s final show for his namesake brand in fall 2002. It’s probably most recognized as being associated with the hooded “capuche” pieces from the mid-1980s. The chic additional is definitely an iconic look that has permeated pop culture throughout the years, even beyond the scope of Saint Laurent (think: Grace Jones and Martha Graham).

The New Silhouette Is Big and Bold

Yves Saint Laurent will be remembered for many things, but especially for the invention of the Le Smoking tuxedo suit for women in 1966; the skinny, lean-cut set that radicalized the fashion industry for years to come. This season, we saw a bold new take on the suit silhouette courtesy of creative director Anthony Vaccarello. The brand ushered in soft suiting in pajama-like shapes with lush leathers, metal cuffs, and sunglasses. Plus, it was a bit like Studio 54 redux, with oversized coats, floor-sweeping wide leather jackets, cutout jersey twist tops, and sheer column dresses. But most of all, it felt like a new suit for a new era at Saint Laurent: an overwhelming message of big, powerful, potent dressing. The message? Don’t leave home without big shoulders, big earrings, and especially big hoods to glamorously hide behind.

’80s Colors Reigned Supreme

In case there were any other doubts that Anthony Vaccarello was riffing on the brand’s ’80s archives, there was ample proof in the off-kilter color combinations that felt otherworldly in comparison to this season’s devotion to harsh black and muted neutrals. Sure, there were basic hues, but the garments really came to life in intriguingly muted brights. Think: rich burgundy leather jackets layered over saffron-hued column jersey dresses that slinked across the floor as they moved. Eggplant purples, true olive greens, and incredibly decadent chocolate browns truly thrived.

The Setting Was Striking, and Star-Studded

Saint Laurent shows typically take place under the enchanting lights of the Eiffel Tower each season. Once again, spring 2023 showcased the tower’s twinkling lights, a branded sculpture inside the area’s fountain, and plenty of front row stars, including Hailey Bieber, Zoë Kravitz, Amber Valletta, Kate Moss, Shalom Harlow, Juergen Teller and many more.

Yves Saint Laurent’s iconic muses of the past, including Betty Catroux and Jerry Hall, were also in attendance.