Pharrell Williams’s Louis Vuitton Men’s Debut Was a Star-Packed Celebration

Louis Vuitton’s men’s spring 2024 show has become, without a doubt, one of the most talked-about events of men’s fashion week. It’s no surprise either—this is the very first show from the newly named creative director Pharrell Williams, the multitalented record producer, rapper, singer, songwriter, and designer.

As the successor to Virgil Abloh, many have been vocal about Williams’s appointment at Louis Vuitton since it was announced in February—either enthusiastically awaiting his work, or rallying behind the names in fashion they wished had gotten the opportunity instead. But this is hardly the first time Williams has been involved with fashion: in 2004, he co-designed a line of eyewear with Marc Jacobs at Louis Vuitton, followed by a 2008 jewelry project with the mega house. Next came collaborations designed in partnership with Adidas, Moncler, and Chanel, including a capsule collection he created alongside the late creative director Karl Lagerfeld in 2019. He also cofounded Billionaire Boys Club with Nigo in 2003. All that aside, Williams’s appointment marks the first time a figure from the world of music has taken on such a high-profile role in fashion.

Here’s everything you need to know about Louis Vuitton’s men’s spring 2024 show, which took place outdoors, on Paris’s Pont Neuf bridge in Paris on June 20.

The Damier Is Back

Days before the show, Williams debuted his first Louis Vuitton campaign as creative director, featuring a pregnant Rihanna wielding armfuls of Speedy bags, silver chains, a cup of coffee and an undone button-down covered in shadowed checkerboard print. The look spoke volumes, especially for Louis Vuitton devotees. ​​Damier, the brand’s checkered print first introduced in 1889—is back, with Williams using the pattern in radical new ways. It covered the Pont Neuf bridge in a blanket of pillowy, pale yellow carpeting that served as the runway. But it was also seen on jean jackets, longline coats, slouchy soft suits, and in hues of bright yellow, brilliant blue, and navy. Per the show notes, the Damier print imprinted on Williams as one of his earliest introductions to the house’s signatures. Thus, for his first outing, he iterated on the design in pixelated versions and enlisted the digital artist ET Artist to create an 8-bit Atari motif.

Cast in deep green and neutral hues, the pattern was aptly named “Damoflage” by Williams and was found on everything from utilitarian-style rain boots and crossbody bags and trunks to athleisure looks as worn by Kim Kardashian on the front row. For his final bow, Williams himself opted for a full Damoflage suit worn with a new version of his now trademark Tiffany & Co. diamond sunglasses.

Accessories Were Everything

Williams has made it clear that the accessories are as important as the clothing here. The musician’s longtime stylist Matthew Henson styled the show with embossed backpacks, little round sunglasses, chunky black beanies, structured logo berets, camo square sunglasses, and cargo pocket bags—while multiple open-air golf carts drove the length of the runway with the brand’s signature luggage trunks on their flatbeds. Williams obviously has an eye for details, with little chunky scrunched socks that recalled a kawaii ’90s Fruits magazine vibe. Aside from that, even the clothing was accessorized: with beaded crystal coats; shimmering, ladylike, embroidered suits; pearl chains; necklaces, and even pearl-trimmed sweatsuits. Models held multiple bags at once; gold top-handle trunks, Speedies nestled in the crooks of their arms. They were also decked out in rolled-up blankets and flowing trapper hats. Williams was looking to dandy culture as inspiration, citing “the attitude of the dandy... a loosely autobiographical tailored silhouette adapted in a contemporary approach to suiting and encrusted with pearls and crystals,” in the show notes.

Meet the New LVERS Logo

There were many significant and playful motifs within this collection, including blue jeans embroidered with designs from artist Henry Taylor (who also opened the show with a pre-recorded conversation with the comedian Jerrod Carmichael). Also on display: a new take on the classic Louis Vuitton logo splashed across leather bomber and varsity jackets that combined the classic “LV” monogram with the word “lovers.” Taking inspiration from Williams’s home state’s slogan “Virginia is for Lovers”, the logo is meant to capture “a state of mind: warmth, well being and welcome-ness. It is the culture of a global community connected by an appreciation for the core values of the maison,” read the show notes. The collection was also co-ed, with a few female models sprinkled here and there, wearing striped leather rugby polos and slouchy, soft suits. Overall, Williams brought an eclectic sense of youthfulness, filtering the Louis Vuitton brand codes through his own personal style lens. “I am a creative designer from the perspective of the consumer,” he told The New York Times ahead of the show. “I didn’t go to Central Saint Martins. But I definitely went in the stores and purchased, and I know what I like.”

There Were Familiar Faces Everywhere

There was never any doubt that Williams’s debut would attract major star power. Beyoncé took a brief break from her “Renaissance” world tour to join her husband Jay-Z who later performed at the after party. Naomi Campbell and Anitta arrived in head-to-toe monogram. Rihanna and A$AP Rocky twinned in denim and newly named Louis Vuitton ambassador Zendaya wore a sequined set straight of the house’s cruise 2024 runway. They were joined by Megan Thee Stallion, Kim Kardashian, Lenny Kravitz, Maluma, Lewis Hamilton, Tyler the Creator, LeBron James, and more. But the front row wasn’t the only place for star sightings. Several of Williams’s friends and collaborators popped up on the Pont Neuf runway. Among them were brothers Gene and Terrence Thornton (better known as Clipse’s No Malice and Pusha T), the artist Nick Cave, Public School co-founder and creative director Dao-Yi Chao and designer Stefano Pilati, the former creative director of YSL. Models Liya Kebede, Anna Ewers, and Anok Yai also donned the unisex collection.

The Show Was a Celebration

Throughout the presentation, new Williams-produced songs including “Joy (Unspeakable)” were performed by the Virginia-based gospel choir Voices of Fire. “Chains & Whips” by Clipse—(Pusha T and No Malice)—and a track titled “Peace Be Still”, featuring piano played by Lang Lang were also performed live. Instead of taking a traditional final walk, the models came out in one large group followed by Williams, wearing his own Damoflage creation and wiping tears from his face as he greeted his family. Next came his team at Louis Vuitton, who embraced their new creative director, clapped, and sang along with the choir. Williams bowed to his team in gratitude while the crowd gave them all a standing ovation. Overall, the finale cemented an emotional and positive debut from a bright cultural force.