Mugler’s Triumphant Return to the Runway Was Filled With ’90s Supers & It Girls

It’s been a wild, wild week in Paris. But few shows, events, and viral moments were as enthralling as Mugler’s fall 2023 return to the runway. The brand hasn’t hosted an in-person presentation since lockdown, and creative director Casey Cadwallader wanted to make sure this one would be as memorable as it gets—opting to host the fall 2023 ready-to-wear show just as the couture shows came to a close in Paris.

And what a show it was. Guests were taken to the outskirts of Paris at Parc de la Villette and brought inside an expansive space, where Mugler staged a unique, hybrid show—perfectly suited to the brand. There were splashy ’90s supermodels, contemporary cultural icons, a Lisa Rinna and Ziwe cameo, and a finale that ended with guests taking over the runway to party. Paloma Elsesser, Debra Shaw, Eva Herzigova, Shalom Harlow, Amber Valletta, Adut Akech, Anok Yai, Mariacarla Boscono, and Dominique Jackson were just a handful of stars sharing the catwalk. There’s been a notable lack of diversity at the couture shows this season, so Mugler’s cast of characters felt especially welcome as he included a range of stars across age, ethnicity, size, and gender—including models and friends of the brand who previously participated in Mugler’s digital shows.

Thierry Mugler was known for his theatrical, boundary-breaking presentations, which bridged performance, art, and fashion, especially during the ’80s and ’90s. And since Cadwallader has been at the helm of Mugler, he’s also developed his own lexicon for shows, bringing together video and performance with dynamic casting. The result? Digital shows that actually gain traction rather than falling flat, like so many did during the onset of the pandemic.

On Thursday night, as the first model took to the runway in leather cutout chaps and a sculptural bra that looked like it could be straight from Mugler’s archives, she also took a lap on a rolling platform surrounded by cameras; her image was broadcast on an extra-large TV screen flanked by a staircase in the middle of the runway. This was the format for most of the show—fusing digital with IRL to create something that felt oddly refreshing in the age of so much screen time.

Cadwallader has done an excellent job of defining Mugler’s aesthetic for a new generation with his use of denim, sheer panels, and bodycon pieces—and this collection was an extension of that. The majority of the garments were presented in an inky-black hue, save for a few white pieces and one red dress worn by Mariacarla Boscono. In the place of sheer panels, Cadwallader introduced black lace, leather, and technical takes on denim. These were staples that are bound to become the new Mugler “It” piece: namely, the low-slung wraparound denim miniskirts; lace bustier bodysuits, and the tough, moto-inspired leather jackets. The underwear-as-outerwear trend also shows no signs of slowing down, if this collection is any indication.

Cadwallader also took the occasion as an opportunity to release his first bag for Mugler. A set of models wearing head-to-toe black lace bodysuits danced around the runway holding the new design; Rinna, of course, carried it as she sat in the front row. Dubbed the Spiral Curve 01, the textural twisted leather bag with a sculptural shape has potential to become as iconic as the vintage Mugler bags being bought in droves on Depop right now.

This show was just undeniably fun—and didn’t take itself too seriously. Guests were cheering, clapping, and gasping the whole time. And when it ended, ’90s supers and cool kids alike stormed the stage, beckoning the audience to come up and party. There aren’t very many brands that can pull off a dynamic show like that while still making a strong, directional statement with the clothing at the same time.