The 5 Biggest High Jewelry Trends We Saw at Couture Week

Between all the glittering runway shows, intimate presentations and celebrity sightings at haute couture week in Paris—which took place this year from Jan. 27-30—the world’s top jewelry houses also showcased their latest collections of high jewelry. For the uninitiated, haute joaillerie is the top of the top of fine jewelry—featuring the rarest stones, the most complex techniques, and the most exacting craftsmanship. In other words, high jewelry is the haute couture version of jewelry, offering up the blingiest, most exceptional takes on jewels. These are not your average tennis bracelets. Read on for the top trends to emerge from the spring 2025 high jewelry season.

Think Pink

Pink stones are the shining stars (or stones!) in the world of high jewelry right now. Mellerio presented a stunning new shining pink-and-purple necklace with juicy cabochons of rose quartz, opals, morganite, and lavender quartz all set in decorative, sculptural yellow gold. Elsewhere, Louis Vuitton presented its “Awakened Hands, Awakened Minds Chapter II” collection featuring a glowing yellow gold and platinum pendant with over eight carats of deep, pinkish-red rubies from Mozambique. Meanwhile, Dior used plenty of pink sapphires. Emeralds and diamonds in high jewelry, we know—but right now feels like the perfect time for rubies, opals, and kunzite galore to be the rocks of the moment.

Animal Instinct

Cartier presented the third part of its “Nature Sauvage High Jewelry” collection—and with it came a bevy of animals decked out in the finest gold and gemstones. Jacqueline Karachi, director of high jewelry creation reimagined the iconic panther as a chunky, glittering necklace that transforms into a shoulder piece or bracelet, complete with onyx, diamonds, and a huge 10.10-carat Zambian emerald. Another panther necklace includes the gorgeous feline atop a 26.53-carat Ceylon sapphire and leaf-like diamond studded features. The Ispida ring is shaped like a Kingfisher bird, with a 15.21-carat cushion-cut tourmaline body. And while Van Cleef & Arpels was missing from the Paris schedule this season because they presented their “Treasure Island”-themed collection earlier this season in Miami, the animal theme continued nonetheless. Van Cleef’s turtle, otherwise known as the Tortue de Cocos bleue clip, came encrusted with a mosaic of blue oval sapphires and emerald eyes.

Victoriana Glamour

It feels like every brand is referencing the Victorian era at the moment. Boucheron, an inherently Victorian era brand since its inception in 1858, looked back to original designs from that time period—and modernized it all for its “Histoire de Style” collection, titled “Untamed Nature.” Think: the same complex ivy and wheat shapes Frédéric Boucheron created in the 1800s, but now done as brooches for the hair. Mellerio created stunning charms that are near replicas of antiques, inspired by early 19th-century corsage fronts and decked in hand-worked gold and amethysts. Louis Vuitton, too, took inspiration from 19th-century France, using the country’s art of porcelain as a starting point for lattice-work necklaces set with diamonds, flanked by a central Colombian emerald. The Victorian era was one of the best periods for jewelry—so why not?

White Out

It’s a classic look, but many of the jewelry brands focused solely on white metal with equally icy white diamonds. Take, for instance, Boucheron, which presented its entire spring 2025 in white gold with white diamonds. Inspired by nature, 28 flora and fauna-shaped brooches, necklaces, earrings and rings glittered with techniques such as cut-down settings, in which pavé diamonds are set on a band of metal of the same width and held in position by tiny claws. Creative director Claire Choisne took inspiration from nature and the house’s archives. Dior, too, presented glimmering floral earrings in white gold and diamonds.

Flower Power

Aside from Boucheron’s garden of glittering delights, Dior’s “Milly Dentelle” collection was inspired by founder Christian Dior’s Milly-la-Forêt home. The result? An array of sparkling flower motifs seen on rings, tiaras, bracelets, and more. True to designer Victoire de Castellane’s mesmerizing maximalist aesthetic, the closer you look, the more you see: oceans of petals, bulbs, and stems, all sparkling in deep hues ranging from lilac to fuchsia and daffodil yellow. Also notable: the pieces that utilized black opal as the center stone for flowers. Against the rainbow of contrasting stones, the opal’s lighting streaks are so vast, one could easily get lost by gazing at them for hours.