The jewelry world has long been ready for an infusion of Gucci. The brand did not launch its first collection of high jewelry until 2019, yet when you consider the ethos of Gucci, which for nearly a decade has been defined by the vision of its now-former creative director, Alessandro Michele, one might wonder why it didn’t happen sooner. After all, the universe of Gucci and the heritage of high jewelry share an affinity for rich, intricate details, opulent materials, and beautiful craftsmanship. Yet when Gucci traipsed into the space, the Italian house still managed to put its own spin on things.
High jewelry in Gucci-world is referred to as Hortus Deliciarum, Latin for “Garden of Delights”, and delightful it is. Gucci’s jewelry turns up the volume, just a bit, on any usual quality. The stones aren’t just colorful, they are saturated and bold. The pieces aren’t just embellished, they are painterly - adorned with diamond bows, dripping waterfalls, or intricate animal heads.
In January, during Paris Couture, Gucci revealed a new chapter of Hortus Deliciarum, its 3rd since the collection’s launch. Featuring all genres of jewelry, the pieces build on the line’s artistry. Several of the pieces making their debut took hundreds of hours to craft. A parure which includes a white gold necklace, with diamond-embellished starbursts and lady-like diamond bows, and matching drop earrings, took 300 hours of production. While a yellow gold bracelet showcasing a diamond-embellished chevron pattern and an oval-shaped 16 carat rubellite tourmaline was made in 200.
As has come to be expected with Gucci, all of the pieces are intricately crafted and full of charming and surprising details. Some of my favorite pieces in the collection are a suite of diamond-embellished solitaire rings, in an array of vivid hues that, according to a press release from the house, “resemble the changing colors of the sky.” With awards season in full swing, I do wonder if we’ll be seeing any of these pieces making their red-carpet debut soon. They certainly are Oscar-level exquisite.