At Givenchy, a New Sense of Lightness for Spring 2024

Givenchy’s spring 2024 show showed us all shades of the label—with a subtle nod to its archives, too. There were silky, lightweight little dresses that were sheer and strappy; boxy, oversize blazers, and extra special attention given to draped dresses that were done in different mediums—sheer silk gauze, satin, and sumptuous textiles covered in textural wonders.

Overall, Givenchy’s spring 2024 collection was a reflection of a lighter, more feminine side of the brand. In place of formerly dark neutrals and denim, we saw floral gowns with draping at the neckline and leather wrap dresses with collars. The collection also utilized Mud silk, a Ming Dynasty-era dyeing technique in which silk is submersed in river mud, for an earthy, leather kind of look.

Creative director Matthew M. Williams took risks with color—and it paid off. Scarlet mesh thigh-highs paired with slate-blue gray skirts were formed into rosettes, while powder-y mint greens played with deep browns covered in flower motifs. Cobalt blues popped across the runway on dresses and jackets.

The label firmly ushered in a new era of accessories with pieces that not only had a distinct look but also felt intrinsically more formal. Think: lots of chunky pearl jewelry worn as rings and earrings. Small clutches with big buckles (a reinterpretation of the Voyou bag) as well as sheer, elbow-length opera gloves, were everywhere. Some of the models wore headband-like tiaras.

Strong lines created elegant oppositions through contrast. Oversize jackets were layered over long and soft maxi dresses, for example. Elsewhere, lace pieces covered the tops of fluid dresses. Sleeveless dresses had architectural, arched necklines that were pointed. The crown jewel in the collection was all of the textural fantasies that shined bright in the all-white outdoor venue at École Militaire. The set was designed by Gabriel Calatrava for the Collaborative Architecture Laboratory and also featured lush fabric suspended around a lightweight steel structure.

It’s been a season of fashion houses going back to the archives—and this collection was no exception, especially with its sensuous ASMR-level beaded dresses that wowed on the runway. Lingerie dressing fueled the fire of coolness when mixed with subversive officewear.

Also big this season? Florals. They were everywhere in the collection. “An undying symbol of elegance, the flower is entrenched within the archives of Hubert de Givenchy, whose passion for gardens Matthew M. Williams shares as a source of inspiration,” the show notes read. “Lace, a trope of elegance central to the Maison, is re-activated in the volants of dresses. Jewels transform into clothing in latticed pearl, glass, and crystal grid dresses and skirt.” Jewelry as clothing? A great idea to keep in mind in a sea of wearability.