Ferragamo Fall 2024 Rewrites the Classics With New Rules

Statement-making outerwear, luscious leathers, and dreamy dresses—these are the staples of creative director Maximilian Davis’s Ferragamo. Since taking the helm just two years ago, the young designer has put a focus on the unforgettable silhouettes that define the luxury Italian house’s reputation, one that now goes far beyond shoes and bags. And for fall 2024, he continued this mission. Call it rewriting the classics with a new set of rules.

A slew of deep olive green (a color that’s everywhere for fall 2024) looks opened the show. Grounded in wearable silhouettes for a coed cast, there were oversized and boxy peacoats, tailored trousers and button-downs, blazer and miniskirt sets, a sweater dress with thigh-high boots, and some incredibly tactile and supple-looking leather button-downs paired with a matching skirt and matching pants. To go along with all this: matching olive green leather tote bags, ties, belts, and gloves, all of which gleamed as it paraded down the runway.

Davis has a penchant for great tailoring with a twist, and that was certainly evident in this collection. A double-breasted blazer might come belted with a drop waist, for instance, in a covetable chocolate hue. A black jacket with a high-neck collar was twisted and contorted into a new sculptural shape. And a gossamer, sheer, floaty, mustard-yellow gown was accented with strips of sturdy fabric at the waist to provide an oddly satisfying juxtaposition.

In fact, Davis’s discerning eye could be best seen when he played with materials. Latex-looking skirt-and-top sets recalled 1950s lingerie with built-in bustiers, but the tiers of unbridled feathers at the cups made the look really interesting. A deep scarlet minidress covered in thick paillettes was very Goth mermaid, as was the longer black version which was paired with lipstick red T-strap pumps.

With 66 looks, the collection felt substantial and full of opportunities for every aesthetic. For the more minimal-leaning, there were plenty of slinky red carpet-worthy dresses mixed in among the more decorative pieces. Paloma Elsesser walked the runway in a glossy black dress with cutouts, as trains of fabric trailed from each side of the gown. Under the big, bright lights, the texture looked like liquid. It’s all more than enough to keep the Ferragamo diehards coming back for more—with new fans of the brand surely tuned in to see what’s next for Davis’s Ferragamo.