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FASHION WEEK

After Wig Controversy, Comme des Garçons Sticks to What It Knows

Feb. 29, 2020

A model wearing a black-red dress with large orange segments by Comme des Garçons

For its fall 2020 menswear show in January, Comme des Garçons put models in lace-front wigs with Fulani braids. The sheer cornrows in bleach blonde and dark brown, which were pulled far down the models’s faces and revealed their real hair underneath, were seen as cultural appropriation, and a distasteful joke on black hairstyles. The hairstylist Julien d’Ys insisted that he was inspired by an “Egyptian prince,” and apologized on Instagram. In the wake of the controversy, Comme des Garçons brought its fall 2020 womenswear collection to Paris Fashion Week—and stuck to its roots of the weird and the whimsical this time around. Curtains of lace hung from halos shaped around the models’s heads; proportions were comically enlarged; bulbous pieces of fabric, like lumps, clung to shift dresses. A pair of hot-pink harem pants, done in tulle, formed an upside-down heart. There’s some difficulty explaining just what these looks resembled, otherworldly as they appeared. But that’s the signature Comme des Garçons does best, and should preserve.

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A model walking the runway at the Comme Des Garcons fall 2020 show in a red and brown dress and a pi...

On the runway at the Comme Des Garcons fall 2020 show, during Paris Fashion Week, on February 29, 2020. Photographed by Serichai Traipoom.

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A model walking the Comme Des Garcons runway in a black gown and headpiece, and a white soft accesso...

On the runway at the Comme Des Garcons fall 2020 show, during Paris Fashion Week, on February 29, 2020. Photographed by Serichai Traipoom.

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A model walking the runway in a white top with puffy sleeves, a red skirt and a blue headpiece with ...

On the runway at the Comme Des Garcons fall 2020 show, during Paris Fashion Week, on February 29, 2020. Photographed by Serichai Traipoom.

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A model in a green box-like top, an orange box-like skirt, and an orange headpiece at Comme Des Garc...

On the runway at the Comme Des Garcons fall 2020 show, during Paris Fashion Week, on February 29, 2020. Photographed by Serichai Traipoom.

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A model on Comme Des Garcons' runway in Paris wearing a large lilac dress with a white opening and a...

On the runway at the Comme Des Garcons fall 2020 show, during Paris Fashion Week, on February 29, 2020. Photographed by Serichai Traipoom.

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A model on Comme Des Garcons' fall 2020 runway in Paris in a grey dress and black wire construction ...

On the runway at the Comme Des Garcons fall 2020 show, during Paris Fashion Week, on February 29, 2020. Photographed by Serichai Traipoom.

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A model walking Comme Des Garcons' fall 2020 runway in Paris in a grey dress layered dress, with a y...

On the runway at the Comme Des Garcons fall 2020 show, during Paris Fashion Week, on February 29, 2020. Photographed by Serichai Traipoom.

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A model on the Comme Des Garcons fall 2020 runway in Paris in a large black gown with a large black ...

On the runway at the Comme Des Garcons fall 2020 show, during Paris Fashion Week, on February 29, 2020. Photographed by Serichai Traipoom.

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A model on the Comme Des Garcons fall 2020 runway in a yellow silk top with sleeved reaching her kne...

On the runway at the Comme Des Garcons fall 2020 show, during Paris Fashion Week, on February 29, 2020. Photographed by Serichai Traipoom.

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A model on the Comme Des Garcons fall 2020 runway in a turquoise and maroon dress and an embellished...

On the runway at the Comme Des Garcons fall 2020 show, during Paris Fashion Week, on February 29, 2020. Photographed by Serichai Traipoom.

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A model on Comme Des Garcons' runway in a puffy white blouse, red gloves, a red and blue skirt, and ...

On the runway at the Comme Des Garcons fall 2020 show, during Paris Fashion Week, on February 29, 2020. Photographed by Serichai Traipoom.

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A model on Comme Des Garcons' runway in a black dress with a black 3D circle in the middle and a lar...

On the runway at the Comme Des Garcons fall 2020 show, during Paris Fashion Week, on February 29, 2020. Photographed by Serichai Traipoom.

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A model on Comme Des Garcons' fall 2020 runway in a long white dress and large white lace headpiece ...

On the runway at the Comme Des Garcons fall 2020 show, during Paris Fashion Week, on February 29, 2020. Photographed by Serichai Traipoom.

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A model on the Comme Des Garcons runway in a green dress, red heels, and a pink with black headpiece...

On the runway at the Comme Des Garcons fall 2020 show, during Paris Fashion Week, on February 29, 2020. Photographed by Serichai Traipoom.

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A model in Comme Des Garcons' show in a black dress, black shoes, a feathered black headpiece and ma...

On the runway at the Comme Des Garcons fall 2020 show, during Paris Fashion Week, on February 29, 2020. Photographed by Serichai Traipoom.

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A model on the Comme Des Garcons fall 2020 runway in a red construction with two puffy elements on t...

On the runway at the Comme Des Garcons fall 2020 show, during Paris Fashion Week, on February 29, 2020. Photographed by Serichai Traipoom.

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A model on the Comme Des Garcons runway in a black dress with a white stripe and blue feathers with ...

On the runway at the Comme Des Garcons fall 2020 show, during Paris Fashion Week, on February 29, 2020. Photographed by Serichai Traipoom.

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A model on the Comme Des Garcons runway in a white dress with accessories resembling pillows and a l...

On the runway at the Comme Des Garcons fall 2020 show, during Paris Fashion Week, on February 29, 2020. Photographed by Serichai Traipoom.

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A model on the Comme Des Garcons fall 2020 runway in pink tulle hammer pants and a white lace headpi...

On the runway at the Comme Des Garcons fall 2020 show, during Paris Fashion Week, on February 29, 2020. Photographed by Serichai Traipoom.