Chanel’s Spring 2023 Collection Was Inspired by Kristen Stewart
“Of the people around me, she is the closest to Gabrielle Chanel—at least, to my idea of her,” creative director Virginie Viard wrote in the show notes.
Spring 2023 has been a season of extremes, with labels either indulging in full-blown maximalism or going completely in the opposite direction with curated basics. Chanel took the latter approach, with a toned-down show full of slouchy, casual naturals with a formal twist. Sheer capes, tweed shorts, and fishnet knee socks collided in a collection born from inspiration by the 1961 film Last Year in Marienbad and the idea of freedom of movement.
White, beige, and black blanketed the collection through button-down tweed jackets, minidresses, and swingy short suits. “The films we have seen, those that possess us and those we invent for ourselves, Marienbad, the Nouvelle Vague, the allure according to Gabrielle Chanel, Karl, the night, feathers, sequins, heels: I like it when things get mixed up,” creative director Virginie Viard said in the show notes.
Kristen Stewart—and all of her cool, boyishly edgy styling choices—clearly influenced the collection; Viard wrote that “of the people around me, she is the closest to Gabrielle Chanel—at least, to my idea of her. She understands Chanel, its clothes.” The lower-slung silhouettes, baggy shorts, and wide-leg suits felt most Stewart-esque in their approach, especially with many of the models walking down the runway with their hands effortlessly in their pockets. It was a small detail that ended up making the collection feel much less formal than the typical Chanel look.
The collection closed with a single white lace column dress with a black neckline and drop waist, recalling a 1940s-does-1920s silhouette. The parade of black dresses that preceded this final look showed some not-yet-seen shapes from Viard, like sheer polo-style blouses with drop-waist sequin and fringe skirts, strapless tiered dresses with sheer paneling, or mini logo slip dresses with detached sleeves and rhinestone bows perched at the top. But most importantly, it was an example that black doesn’t have to be boring and can be used as a device to showcase texture—as well as being a palette cleanser. The layering and styling also felt more youthful than Chanel seasons of the past.
At a time when The Met just announced its Karl Lagerfeld theme, it’s interesting to consider what the future legacy of Chanel will be. Despite Lagerfeld transforming the brand, the house of Chanel was originally a label that was intrinsically tied to womanhood and femininity, with a strong female leader at its helm.
And while it still feels like Viard hasn’t quite found her footing and entrenched herself in the Chanel universe enough to develop her own codes, DNA, and aesthetic language, it’s easy to see how she approaches some aspects of design from a female gaze in ways that Lagerfeld didn’t. For both spring 2023 and Chanel’s prior seasons, it felt like Viard has started to branch out—first with color, and now with jauntier, oversized silhouettes. We can only hope for more of that to come.
