Caroline Polachek Talks Fashion History and the Clothes She’ll Never Throw Out

It’s no wonder Caroline Polachek headlined one of New York Fashion Week’s most anticipated parties. Her albums may have won over the music press, but it is her sense of personal style—raw and romantic, with a touch of Gothic edge—that has endeared her to the fashion community. The musician has a knack for making complicated pieces from edgy labels like KNWLS, Elena Velez, and Priscavera look effortlessly chic. She’s walked the runway for Chloé, Eckhaus Latta, and Collina Strada. And while everyone who’s anyone seems to be gravitating towards hunting down vintage for red carpet appearances at the moment, it takes someone of a certain fashion acumen to know to pull from Olivier Theyskens’s fall 1998 collection—which Polachek did at last year’s Grammy awards. (Plus, there’s the simple fact that her 2019 single “So Hot You’re Hurting My Feelings” makes for the perfect getting-ready soundtrack.)

The former frontwoman of Chairlift performed an intimate, three-song set at Saks Fifth Avenue’s blowout fete last Wednesday, the eve of NYFW’s fall 2025 season. Downstairs at the Crane Club—the theatrically appointed, massive Chelsea restaurant recently opened by Tao Group where the party was held—Nicky Hilton, The Dare, Alex Consani, Laura Harrier, and Hari Nef, among other stars, made appearances. Meanwhile, upstairs in her dressing room, we met Polachek to talk about fashion. Here, she discusses the look she scored from Saks, her preferred method for scouting eBay, and the clothing she just can’t throw away.

Let’s start with an obvious question: What are you wearing tonight?

I’m wearing this ethereal silk crepe top from Issey Miyake, and this lingerie-inspired Margiela skirt with Neous boots. The jewelry is all ethically sourced from Saks Fifth Avenue’s high jewelry collection.

Do you remember the first major fashion purchase you ever made?

I’ll never forget it, and I still wear it all the time. It was an Ann Demeulemeester white cotton very asymmetric button-up shirt inspired by Patti Smith. I believe it was 2008—she had done a whole collection of white shirts inspired by the singer and poet. I think I was, like, 22. I had just graduated from college. I put this shirt on, and I felt like an artist when I wore it. It was definitely the most expensive thing I’d bought at that time; it probably cost £200 pounds, which was crazy for me then. I still wear it all the time—it’s so beat up now that you can almost see through it.

Are there any other items in your closet that you’ll never throw out?

One of my favorite music videos I’ve ever made was in 2012 for a song called “Amnesia.” I had this seafoam green spandex catsuit made for it. I haven’t worn it once since then, but that thing will never leave my closet.

Do you tend to keep a lot of things?

It depends. If it’s a designer or archive pull, obviously, I have to give it back, but whenever it’s custom I keep it.

Who’s your ultimate style icon?

At the moment, I’m obsessed with Charlotte Gainsbourg. The way she dresses feels so sexy, yet still androgynous. It seems like she has spent zero time thinking about it and I really admire that.

Do you have a style pet peeve?

When there’s a surface treatment, like beading or embroidery, that’s done to the front and not to the back. We know we can’t see it, but we know.

What’s your biggest fashion regret?

I have so many, as we all do. My biggest fashion regret was actually when I chopped all my hair off in 2008 into a shoulder-length bob. I had no idea how to style it. So I just had a lampshade hair for a good two years.

Where are some of your favorite places to shop?

I’m a lifelong devotee of vintage and thrifting. I struck gold to the nth degree recently at this vintage shop in Berlin called Sing Blackbird. Shout out to the curators, because it’s incredible.

Do you mostly do boutiques and thrift shops, or are you hunting online too?

Increasingly, I’m lurking eBay, but it’s not actually for designer stuff. I’ll see a shape or a color in my mind and then I’ll just stalk eBay until I find it.

What’s your preferred footwear?

In a pinch, a black cowboy boot goes with everything.

Do you have any items that you bought and never wore, but still haunt your closet?

Oh, millions of those. I have this flouncy petticoat skirt and crop top that both look like peak suburban ’80s hydrangea floral curtains. There’s something so horrifying about the set that it’s kind of incredible. It’s very advanced, but it’s too advanced for me to ever wear it. I will not throw it away because it’s such an amazing set. If I get invited to the perfect camp picnic, then I will wear it.

It always goes like that. We’ll buy this because it’ll be perfect for some theme party, but the party never happens.

But there’s so much optimism in that, isn't there? We’re manifesting the life we want to have by hanging onto to these things.

We’re manifesting the parties we want to go to.

Maybe we should just throw the parties ourselves.