The Insider’s Guide to Berlin

Ever wish you could text the most stylish people in the world to ask them for their lists of things to do in the places they know best? Here are insider travel tips for those who would never be caught dead in a tourist trap. Bon voyage!

Who

There’s no shortage of romance and mythology surrounding Germany’s capital city. To cut through the noise, we spoke to five of Berlin’s most impactful tastemakers, all locals or longtime residents: Benjamin Alexander Huseby and Serhat Isik, the designers of Berlin-based label GmbH; Mumi Haiati, the founder of Reference Studios; artist Donna Huanca, known for her immersive installations and multisensory performances; and Nina Pohl, photographer and curator of the Schinkel Pavillon.

What

What to Bring

“Pack your G-string and leave behind any inhibitions,” says Huanca.

The truth is, you really don’t need much. The style of the city is laid-back and largely informal. When I first moved to Berlin (very spontaneously) in 2018, I lived out of a carry-on for five months before returning to New York to get my things. (I can’t imagine living this sparsely in Paris or London or so many other places, but here it is doable.)

Some essentials: Walkable shoes. Minimal sandals or a cool pair of sneakers are a must. Bring light layers if you’re planning on visiting in the summer or fall; it can get chilly at night. I might also suggest a pair of sturdy boots if you’re planning on clubbing. Nothing makes me feel safer on the dance floor than my seemingly impenetrable Docs.

I would also bring a good pair of denim, clothes that can easily go from day to night; the fanciest thing you’ll need would be a look you’d wear to a gallery opening. Don’t believe the rumors that this is a city of people wearing only black. Aesthetically, there’s room for fun and irony. Paloma Wool, ’90s Prada and Miu Miu, vintage sportswear, flea market finds, anything by Martine Rose, Kiko Kostadinov, neons, and of course Berlin’s locals like GmbH feel on the pulse. Consider also packing some detox supplies and a solid book to read in the park and in cafés—it’s a great city in which to be alone.

Finally, “bring swimwear,” says Huseby and Isik. Berlin is full of lakes and parks where you can picnic and take a dip throughout the summer months.

What to Leave Behind

Leave your heels at home. Moreover, if you’re swimming, your bikini is optional. “Simply leave it behind if you prefer the many ‘clothing optional’ (or FKK = ‘free body culture’) lakes and beaches,” Isik advises.

What to Keep in Mind

“Don’t say, ‘Berlin is so cheap,’” Huseby says. It’s worth being aware that Berlin is experiencing a housing crisis, with rents rising dramatically in recent years and wages remaining comparably low. What’s relatively inexpensive for you as a visitor may not be for the people creating the culture.

Moreover, “the biggest misconception is that Berlin is super liberal and free, just because the clubs and bars never seem to close,” Isik explains. “This is such an illusion that most foreigners don’t see past. Berlin is still in Germany, and has the same conservative laws and regulations for everything else. Take for instance gender equality and social mobility, which is way behind many comparable European countries.”

On a practical note, the city is easy to get around in. Jump on the train from the airport for a €4 trip into the city. The UBahn and SBahn are your friends.

Where

Where to Stay

Huseby and Isik recommend Mitte, Berlin’s most central neighborhood, for first-time visitors. It’s easily connected to the rest of the city, and full of cafés, buzzy restaurants, green spaces, and wine bars. The best place to stay is “SoHo House,” says Huanca, admitting, “Sorry, it’s true.”

Chateau Royal is also a great option, with each room featuring original works by a different artist. The hotel collaborated with the KW Institute for Contemporary Art to collect pieces from over 100 international and local artists, including Anne Imhof and Jeremy Shaw. Another classic is the traditional five-star Hotel de Rome, which Pohl calls out for its rather ideal location on Museum Island—right next to Schinkel Pavillon.

If you’re staying on the west side, Haiati recommends the stately SO/ Berlin Das Stue and Regent, an opulent boutique property with old-school luxury appeal. (Try the afternoon tea.)

Where to Start the Day

Everyone has their own favorite neighborhood café, but for an excellent cinnamon bun, traditional Northern European handmade bread, and the best cold brew, head to Sofi in Mitte.

Another outstanding option is Albatross Bakery in Neukolln. Go “for their Queen A pastry (a version of a kouign amann) pastry,” says Isik. “But not for their coffee.”

Pohl recommends the beautifully minimal Julius, the little brother to Michelin-starred Ernst. Come for freshly baked pastries and Japanese-influenced small plates.

A brunch favorite is Annelies. Enjoy mimosas and fluffy buttermilk pancakes before grabbing to-go drinks and people-watching in Görlitzer park.

Where to Eat

The food scene in Berlin is increasingly diverse, with plenty of Turkish and Vietnamese options, an array of hand-pulled Chinese noodle spots, and innovative takes on German-influenced, farm-to-table cuisine. Haiati recommends “Borchardt for the best schnitzel in town and Baba Angora for Turkish brunch,” adding, “To go back in time to the golden days of West Berlin, head to Paris Bar. Grill Royal is the ultimate classic, as is the mysterious China Club—if you know a member—for a luxurious, high-end Chinese food experience.” (David Bowie and Rainer Werner Fassbinder were Paris Bar regulars during their Berlin eras, and the French brasserie is still a place to find interesting characters.)

Huanca, meanwhile, suggests a visit to Dong Xuan Center, the largest Asian market in the city with food vendors especially from Vietnam but also representing China, Pakistan, and India. “It’s entering another dimension and you find authentic flavor there,” she notes.

“We love the Yemeni restaurant on Sonnenallee,” add Isik and Huseby. “Casual, busy and affordable, but great traditional Yemeni food.”

For a truly special experience, book a table at Coda, a two-star Michelin dessert-only restaurant in a small industrial space in Neukolln that pushes the boundaries of pastry-making. Think a pecan and Jerusalem artichoke popsicle coated in caviar or a paper-light waffle filled with Raclette cheese. Go with an open mind and you won’t be disappointed.

Where to Shop

Berlin is full of markets, and is increasingly a top destination for sourcing vintage, especially ’90s and Y2K grails.

“I love to search at Sunday flea markets in Charlottenburg, Neukölln, Arkonaplatz,” Huanca says. “When I’m feeling like quiet luxury, I go to Manufactum for a true German experience.”

For high-end vintage, go to Pineapple Factory in Mitte, suggests Isik, Huseby, and Huanca. Haiati also recommends Townes for archival finds. Wsiura, a favorite of Huanca’s, gets its name from the Polish word for a poorly dressed woman; come here for vintage Mugler, Jil Sander, and a sex swing in the basement. A unique Berlin experience is BLESS, adds Haiati. The apartment-store in Prenzlauer Berg explores apparel and home objects through a playful, deconstructionist lens. For instance, the brand collaborated with Margiela in creating the fur wig seen in the fall 1997 ad campaign.

For those looking for ready-to-wear, Alex Eagle’s The Store has great stuff (and it’s a perfect “work-from-home” café—try the date smoothie with a shot of espresso), as does Voo store, which can not be missed. Andreas Murkudis is also a local institution. Head West to Charlottenburg for “KadeWe, Balenciaga, and Bottega Veneta,” Pohl suggests.

Where to Look at Art

Berlin has been the center of the conceptual art world for many years, and its fine art scene is a reason in and of itself to visit.

Book a tour (in advance) at Boros Collection, the private collection housed in a former WWII bunker-turned-GDR-era-banana-storage-facility, and later, hardcore techno club. Beyond its incredible Brutalist structure and a history that untangles the city’s, the collection itself—contemporary work making use of the space—is well worth engaging with. The James Turrell Chapel, located in the historic Dorotheenstädtischer Cemetery, is a truly meditative experience, and also requires a reservation.

As far as other institutions go, Haiati recommends Neue Nationalgalerie “under the direction of Klaus Biesenbach, plus Hamburger Bahnhof and Sprüth Magers & Buchholz for being some of the most directional galleries.”

“[The best art day] depends on the neighborhood, and I will go anywhere for a good show,” Huanca adds. “My favorites are: Number One Main Road, Peres Projects, Isabella Bortolozzi, Esther Schipper, Julia Stoschek, [and] Heidi Heidi Heidi.”

Where to Unwind

Wellness goes hand in hand with club culture in a city with plenty of offerings in both arenas. Try the Susanne Kaufmann spa at Das Stue Hotel, suggests Pohl. Another luxurious pick is the 111Skin Spa at Hotel Adlon Kempinski, complete with several restorative facials for serious skin revival. Save a day for Vabali, a sprawling, deeply calming spa full of steam rooms, saunas, and pools. (Just be aware that you have to be nude on the premises).

As for exercise, Haiati highly recommends booking a session with trainer Lesley Moon. BeCycle—with locations in Mitte, Charlottenburg, and Kreutzberg—has excellent spinning, yoga, and pilates classes. Three Boons Yoga is also a local favorite.

Where to Get Some Fresh Air

One of the best parts of summer in Berlin is experiencing the city’s lakes and parks. Head to “Tempelhof, lying in the grass or get out of the city to one of the lakes,” suggest Isik and Huseby.

Haiati recommends The Botanical Gardens, Grunewald—a beautiful forest near Charlottenburg—and Peacock Island, located in the lake of Wannsee in the west for inspiration. If you are a runner, Tiergarten park is lovely.

Where to Have a Drink

The relaxed culture of the city comes out in the bar scene. “Take drinks with you and sit in Tempelhof field (the abandoned airfield) on a sunny day,” says Huseby.

Depending on the neighborhood you start in, I would recommend grabbing a bottle of natural wine from The Rad, Rocket Wine (the staff is incredibly knowledgeable), or Nomi Wine Bar, which features female winemakers. Or stop by one of Berlin’s many spätis for a beer or lemonade.

For cocktails, both Pohl and Haiati call out Victoria Bar, the Art Deco-style Schoneberg hub known for its crowd of artists and gallerists. Wax On in Neukolln has beautifully refined, stripped-down takes on classic cocktails. Kink Bar & Restaurant, next to Olafur Eliasson’s studio in Mitte, is an excellent option for more experimental drinks.

Where to Stay Up Late

“Berghain,” says Pohl. Little explanation is needed. “I love the sound system,” muses Huanca. “It can be a very bodily experience.”

Beyond the obvious, Huanca adds, “I love dancing at Roses, but will dance anywhere a good DJ is.”

Isik and Huseby, whose label was born in the club scene, share, “Currently the best parties in Berlin are MP3, Nothing Special, and Floorgasm. They all happen quite irregularly and change venues from time to time.”

They also recommend Trauma Bar & Kino for live music.

“For classical music, Philharmonie,” Pohl suggests. There’s a thriving live arts scene in the city that extends beyond electronic music, encompassing theater, opera, and dance. (Berlin has seven symphony orchestras and three opera houses; be sure to check openings.)

When

“[Come] late April for Gallery Weekend until Art Week and Atonal in September. After that it gets cold and gray,” Haiati says. The days also get shorter. Berlin is at its emotional and sensory peak in the warmer months.

Why

Although the city has changed over the past decades, some constants remain. “[I love] the sentiment of the free spirit. Its vastness,” Haiati says. “The most common misconception is that of Berlin as a pure party city—it has much more cultural offerings. Walk around the Turkish market on Maybachufer on Saturdays. Go and see the Turkish and Arabic neighborhoods, and the Asian restaurants on Kantstraße.”

Huanca echoes this feeling. “For me, Berlin has been an energetic center of freedom, without the fussiness and transactional vibe of other big cities,” she shares. “It has real seasons, so when the weather changes, so does your mood. In the summertime, Berlin turns into a very sexy place, full of wild green spaces.”