As I write this, I’m surrounded by a deep red glow. I’m not in Hell—quite the opposite—I’m luxuriating in the skincare benefits of an LED mask. At-home LED devices have taken the beauty world by storm. Once, they were a treatment only available at spas and dermatologists’ offices. Now, for a price, anyone can administer their own light therapy from the comfort of their couch. So, how do these machines work? What are their benefits? And the question on everybody’s mind: are they worth the hefty price tag?
Class is in Session
Before we get into which products you should buy, there is much to learn about LED. When I first heard about light therapy as skincare, I thought it might be a fad. But forms of light therapy, also known as phototherapy, have existed for centuries. Many ancient cultures used sunlight to treat illness and promote health. Even the most famous nurse of all time, Florence Nightingale, insisted her patients be near a window, “second only to their need of fresh air is their need for light…not only light but direct sunlight.” In 1903, physician Niels Ryberg Finsen, the father of modern phototherapy, was awarded the Nobel Peace Prize for his research into how different wavelengths of light can treat skin conditions and for developing the first artificial light for this purpose.
Moving from History to Science class, learning how these devices work is essential. If you’re strapping on a Hannibal Lecter-style mask to your face and turning bright red or blue, you ought to know what it’s doing to you and how.
First, a little bit about wavelengths. By now, we all know that UV rays can be extremely harmful, and while sunlight provides us with nourishing vitamin D, it can also lead to sun damage, premature aging, and skin cancer. UV, or ultraviolet, is invisible to the eye and has short, intense wavelengths. Visible light, such as red or blue, has longer wavelengths, and near-infrared light (NIR) has much longer wavelengths. The longer the wavelength, the deeper it will penetrate the skin.
The vehicle for these different light wavelengths in beauty devices are LEDs, which stands for Light-Emitting Diodes. “LEDs work by affecting the metabolism of cells through many different pathways,” explains Dr. Melissa Kanchanapoomi Levin, a board-certified dermatologist and founder of Entière Dermatology. “Those pathways include increased energy through the cell’s mitochondria, modulation of reactive oxygen species (free radicals, which cells make), altering collagen production, stimulating blood vessel growth, and increasing blood flow.” LED treatments can be blue, red, yellow, green, or NIR. The most popular and well-researched are blue, red, and NIR.
The Differences Between Wavelengths
What is Blue Light Used for?
If you’re dealing with acne, blue light is the way to go. “Blue light affects acne by working on acne-causing bacteria called Propionibacterium acnes (P. Acnes),” says Dr. Levin, “P. Acnes is a naturally occurring bacteria that lives within hair follicles. When a pore or hair follicle gets clogged, P. Acnes grows and multiplies, causing inflammation, which gives you a pimple. P. Acnes naturally makes a group of proteins called porphyrins. When these porphyrins absorb blue light, it causes the bacteria to die.”
How About Red Light and NIR?
For anti-inflammatory and anti-aging effects, you’ll want to go with red or NIR. I spoke with Raquel Medina-Cleghorn, an esthetician and the founder of Raquel New York, who explained how red and NIR benefit the skin: “Red and NIR LED both stimulate blood circulation, so the most immediate result is skin that looks more vibrant and alive,” she said. “Red LED is anti-inflammatory, making it particularly useful for acne and eczema. Skin can appear plumper, with less noticeable fine lines. These results are both immediate and cumulative.”
Dr. Levin says she often uses red light to treat photo-aged skin or to promote cell repair and renewal after a laser or surgery treatment. “It has been shown to increase the production of collagen and alter the amount of enzymes in your skin that keep the skin young-appearing,” She says. NIR, with its longer wavelengths can reach deeper into the body, making it useful for healing not just surface wounds or scars, but also sore or injured muscles.
What About Yellow and Green Light?
There is less research on yellow and green light, but yellow light also has shown some anti-aging benefits, while green may help fade hyperpigmentation.
Are there Risks?
“The non-invasive nature of LED therapy minimizes the risk of complications or side effects. LED treatments are generally safe and well-tolerated for most individuals,” Dr. Levin tells me. “However, a few groups should exercise caution or avoid LED treatments altogether.” These groups include pregnant people, individuals with epilepsy or a history of seizures, and anyone taking medication that may increase their sensitivity to light. Dr. Levin also cautions against using LED devices if you’re on certain medications that make you sensitive to light, including isotretinoin (Accutane). It’s also important to note that LED should feel like nothing; a very slight warmth is okay, but if at any moment it feels hot or uncomfortable, you should stop treatment immediately.
Are At-Home Devices Worth It?
When comparing at-home devices, you must be on the lookout for two things: wavelength and irradiance. “The difference in quality between retail and professional LEDs can be vast, with some functioning as little more than toys,” warns Medina-Cleghorn. “It is important to check the wavelengths of any retail LEDs you may be considering. There are ranges within which the wavelengths work best, such as 630-660 nanometers for red and 415 for blue.” Irradiance refers to the intensity of the light and is measured in milliwatts. The ideal irradiance has a wide range, between 40-100 mW/cm2. Any reputable brand, such as Omnilux, Lightstim or The Light Salon, will advertise these numbers on their product. If a device you’re considering doesn’t list them, skip it.
The fact of the matter is, any home device worth its weight in wavelengths will be expensive: we’re talking a minimum of $400 for a mask. If you can commit to regular practice, you will see results. But if adding one more step to your routine sounds like a burden, ask your derm or esthetician if they can incorporate light therapy into your treatments.
How Often Can I Use an LED Device?
“The key to long-term benefits is consistency and incorporating LED therapy into a comprehensive skincare regimen,” says Dr. Levin. LED can be used as frequently as you want; I’ve used it every day since getting an at-home mask. When incorporating it into your skincare routine, Medina-Cleghorn clarifies, “As far as time of day, LED can be done at any time. But it should not be done over oils, makeup, sunscreen, opaque masks, or strong actives (i.e., retinol). I’d recommend using LED over a freshly-washed face with a hydrating toner or serum on the skin and waiting until afterward to apply any active products or moisturizer.” Personally, I saw the best results when I used my mask (I have the Omnilux Contour) after I cleansed and exfoliated.
What About In-Office Treatments?
The LED treatments you can get in an esthetician or dermatologist’s office are going to be more powerful than at-home devices, and skincare professionals will know not only what specific wavelength you need but what other treatments to combine it with. “It's worth noting that while LED treatments offer numerous advantages, they may not be a standalone solution for complex skin conditions.” says Dr. Levin, “As a dermatologist, I often combine LED therapy with other treatments, such as topical medications, chemical peels, or laser procedures, to achieve optimal results for my patients.” I personally saw the most dramatic results from a visit to Medina-Cleghorn’s office, so if you’re looking to get a quick LED boost before a big event, your money is best spent on an appointment with a professional rather than a DIY device. Otherwise, think of an in-office treatment as a way to kickstart a consistent at-home maintenance routine.
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