Palomo Spain Was the Most Exciting Show at New York Fashion Week: Men’s and It Wasn’t Even Traditional Men’s Wear
Hari Nef, Troye Sivan, and Ryan McGinley were all front row for Alejandro Gomez Palomo’s debut collection of his namesake Spanish brand. Malia Obama also made an appearance at the after party.
At New York Fashion Week: Men’s this season, there seemed to be love in the air, most notably at Raf Simons’s American debut, but even amid all that fashion fawning, sex appeal was missing, and certainly the pizzazz of a major fashion moment.
Enter Alejandro Gomez Palomo, a 24-year-old designer who debuted his lascivious namesake label, Palomo Spain, at Fashion Week on Thursday afternoon. The collection was called, “Objecto Sexual,” which translates to sexual object from the original Spanish, and was received by whoops and cheers from a front row including the model Hari Nef, singer Troye Sivan, stylist Mel Ottenberg, Kanye West collaborator Eli Russell Linnetz, and photographer Ryan McGinley. It was a tight-knit affair, literally and figuratively speaking, with McGilney’s boyfriend, Marc Armitano Domingo, and Palomo’s own boyfriend, John Tuite, also modeling in the show.
Even Malia Obama made an appearance along with her chaperone, Jenna Lyons, at the brand’s after party that night at Happy Ending. The two came from the Girls premiere and were left unbothered, according to Palomo’s boyfriend and witness.
Backstage at Palomo Spain’s Luxe and Lascivious Fall 2017 Show With “All the Boys In the Club”
Backstage before the presentation of Palomo Spain’s A/W ’17 collection.
Backstage before the presentation of Palomo Spain’s A/W ’17 collection.
Backstage before the presentation of Palomo Spain’s A/W ’17 collection.
Backstage before the presentation of Palomo Spain’s A/W ’17 collection.
Backstage before the presentation of Palomo Spain’s A/W ’17 collection.
Backstage before the presentation of Palomo Spain’s A/W ’17 collection.
Backstage before the presentation of Palomo Spain’s A/W ’17 collection.
Backstage before the presentation of Palomo Spain’s A/W ’17 collection.
Backstage before the presentation of Palomo Spain’s A/W ’17 collection.
Backstage before the presentation of Palomo Spain’s A/W ’17 collection.
Backstage before the presentation of Palomo Spain’s A/W ’17 collection.
Backstage before the presentation of Palomo Spain’s A/W ’17 collection.
Backstage before the presentation of Palomo Spain’s A/W ’17 collection.
Backstage before the presentation of Palomo Spain’s A/W ’17 collection.
Backstage before the presentation of Palomo Spain’s A/W ’17 collection.
Altogether, the Palomo Spain fall 2017 collection looked like what would happen if a young Spanish prince got into his mother, the queen’s, wardrobe. Or if a matador was feeling a bit kinky. (It also owed a major debt to the in-your-face hauteur of the the bad boys of the so-called Movida Madrileña of post-Franco Spain, like Pedro Almodovar.) The show opened with a feminine take on suiting, with ruffles, bell sleeves, and exposed shoulders. And closed with virginal boys in all white gowns and garters, plus one latex suit that resembled a bridegroom’s condom.
“It’s all the boys in the club,” said Palomo of his collection the following day. “You’ve got the dandies, the very serious, masculine guys, and then you’ve got the slutty boys in high boots.”
For his first two collections, Palomo had a much more romantic, poetic approach, but for this season he wanted to be less “beautiful” and more naughty. “It’s not this naive thing anymore,” he added of his relationship to fashion. “I wanted to go a little further to a more sexual place. It’s about trying to find your sexual self inside and exploring it. What’s the role of sex in our lives?”
Before he could answer, the tall and slender model named Pol Roig waltzed over wearing a bedazzled sequin houndstooth blazer, knee-high sliver go-go boots, and nothing else. He reached his hand into the pocket of Polomo’s pants and pulled out his iPhone. “See! This is what I’m talking about,” said Polomo, with a laugh. “We thought about putting trousers on him, but he looks better without.” And it’s true, he did. He just lacked pockets of his own.
“When you feel attracted to something, you can’t control your body,” said Polomo, who nervously stroked a rose flower while he spoke, eventually breaking its stem. “It’s like when you something really expensive and you can’t really afford it; there’s something more that’s driving you to buy it. That’s the feeling that I want to create; that sexual desire you get for clothes.”
Twenty-four hours after the show, men and women alike all wanted to get their hands on Polomo. And on Instagram, the positive feedback was equally ubiquitous. “Palomo Spain just reminded me (and likely New York City herself) that fashion is cool and beautiful and dangerous like wow,” wrote Hari Nef in her Instagram stories.
“I love New York, but it feels like there might be something missing,” said Polomo at the end of the day though. Hopefully, he can be the designer to fill that transgressive hole on the New York calendar. But if not, he’ll take his show elsewhere, as lovers always do.
The 13 Best Looks from New York Fashion Week: Men’s
Billy Reid brought his famous ‘shin-dig’ from the South to New York for his men’s show, which featured great knits, loose-fitting pants, and a casting that embraced men of all ages.
Boss showed their latest collection in New York, a first in nearly a decade. Pieces more interesting than classic suiting held the spotlight, including this leather lace-up pullover jacket.
John Elliot’s elevated take on the track pant is a welcomed alternative that we have been missing.
The Orley trio have rightfully earned their place as on of the best men’s sweater labels. Each season they add thoughtful ready-to-wear pieces to their repertoire, and this flannel suit for fall was a stand-out.
Leopard on men? Why not. The muted print was a surprising and interesting touch at Ovadia & Sons’ show.
The three-seasons-old Palmier du Mal played with silky textures in their pajama shirts, and paired them with a devisive autumnal fabric–corduroy. Here, it worked.
Patrick Ervell seems to understand very well what his customers want, from a logo-less refined take on a starter jacket to classic, beautiful knits.
Raf Simons electrified New York Fashion Week: Men’s with an ode to his new city.
All separates seem to be more relaxed this season, and the same can be said about Robert Geller’s finale looks. He was one of at least three designers at New York Fashion Week: Men’s to cover or obscure part of his models’ faces. For warmth or just for show, we’ll never know.
Rochambeau’s collection took a hint from Eighties post-punk music, but the slogan on one of their tees, “Stay Alive” felt very much to be a reaction to today’s political climate.
Simon Miller denim is a cult-favorite among fashion folk. Soon too will be their strong outerwear pieces, like this leather jacket with shearling collar.
Thaddeus O’Neil offered a chicer version of his surfer muse this fall, and a blue tweed coat styled casually over an elevated pair of sweatpants was a favorite.
Todd Snyder focused on textures, using velour underneath more classic menswear, like this checked coat.
Watch W magazine’s best fashion week videos, below.
