The Best Looks from New York Fashion Week Spring 2017
This season, it can be tough to tell what season designers are showing. Some are looking ahead, presenting their Spring 2017 collections. Others, like Thakoon and Tom Ford, are offering a first look at their Fall 2016 pieces, which are hitting stores now. Here’s a guide to the highlights from New York Fashion Week‘s shows and presentations – no matter the season.
V Files Italian designer Alessandro Trincone’s Spring 2017 collection was headline news weeks before it even hit the VFILES runway. His Japanese-inspired, wide-leg, blue “Kosode” trousers, which are paired with an umbrella headpiece, were chosen by VFILES mentor and rapper Young Thug for the cover of his new album, “No My Name Is Jeffery.” At the VFILES show on Wednesday, however, the look lacked gravitas without Thug as a model, but the all-white version, which can be worn perhaps as a men’s wear wedding dress, stood out in the lineup instead. – Emilia Petrarca
Misha Nonoo Misha Nonoo is no stranger to digital innovation and with their first-ever live look book presented via Snapchat, the brand turned out a very chic and wearable collection every woman can relate to and incorporate into their daily lives. – Courtney Costello
Brock As light and salty as a summer dip in the ocean, the Brock girl wears full-on ruffles with complete insouciance, accessorized with luxe slides and matted, roughed up 40s hair. – Vanessa Lawrence
Creatures of the Wind Leave it to Creatures of the Wind to make a floral silk column dress – with lace appliqués to boot – feel anything but girlish. With snakeskin boots and a bold red lip, this look can go rocker grunge or ultra feminine. A study in contrasts, which is of course what Creatures does best. – Ally Betker
PH5 The more colors you have in a knitted garment, the increasingly difficult it becomes to produce. Luckily for the girls behind Ph5, they have their own factory back in China, where they work closely with the technicians to produce extremely elaborate knitwear at an affordable price point. This look in particular highlights both the brand’s craftsmanship and their fresh take on how a modern, young woman really wants to wear her luxury knits today. – Emilia Petrarca
Hellessy Hellesey’s opening look is what any working girl would want to wear on any given weekday – Sarah Zendejas
Colovos This colorful look stands out amongst the more minimalist Spring 2017 Colovos collection, which has become the brand’s signature since it was founded last year. The husband-and-wife team behind Colovos were formerly the creative directors at Helmut Lang, but this dress proves how their wiping the slate clean and presenting something really personal instead. The print is a photograph that Michael Colovos took of a peeling wall in the subway, which he took while dropping his son off at skateboard camp this summer. – Emilia Petrarca
Adam Selman A dress that seems a breeze to wear, though pasties aren’t included. – Kyle Munzenrieder
Jason Wu This season, Jason experimented with sporty touches – neon, cut outs and stretch knits – but the most striking looks were the delicate lacey evening dresses that embraced the brand’s core aesthetic. – Sam Milner
Area Area’s designers Beckett Fogg and Piotrek Panszczyk have a clever way of making crazy look chic, as evidenced by this crystal tiger-print pantsuit. – Karin Nelson
Lacoste This colorful wrap robe sweater from Lacoste Spring 2017 is the definition of luxury sportswear. Ever since Felipe Oliveira Baptista joined Lacoste as creative director, he’s added an urban, Vetements-like spin on the classic French brand by introducing modern silhouettes like this hoodie, for example, and casting all the coolest girls, as well. – Emilia Petrarca
Ryan Roche check It was far too difficult to pick a favorite look from Ryan Roche’s luxurious collection, but I love how this high neck dress is reminiscent of a modern Victorian nightgown. – Ryann Foulke
Sixty-nine? The 69 show was a lot like walking through the Las Vegas strip if all of the celebrity impersonators were dressed like millennials. Prince stole the show in a crop top, of course. – Jade Vallario
Eckhaus Latta check Despite the 90-degree heat, designers Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta showed their spring collection in a park on the Lower East Side just around the corner from their studio. This patterned, unbuttoned suit, then, not only showcased their distinct knack for wearable, gender-bending designs, but a fashionable, DIY way to let in the much-needed breeze. – Stephanie Eckhardt
Alexander Wang check There was a lot to like in this collection and a lot to choose from for a fun night out. The floral print blouse was sweeter than a lot of the pieces on the runway, and only Wang can make us like a lingerie-inspired board short. – Caroline Grosso
Sies Marjan check Is it ok to wear neon again? After overdosing on that “pop” of color trend circa 2009, Jason Wu, Alexander Wang, and this look from Sies Marjan make the case for fluoro. – Caroline Grosso
Band of Outsiders Americana, collegiate sportswear looks flooded the runway at the newly revamped Band of Outsiders debut collection Saturday night. For those who have always cherished the letterman jacket, or romanticized about having one, there are many killer ones to pick from. Outsiders and insiders alike will want to keep tabs on the evolution on this L.A.-inspired brand with a cult following. Whether they earn their varsity letters? Only time will tell. – Kristin Tice Studeman
Opening Ceremony With a heavy hitter cast ranging from Whoopi Goldberg to comedian Ali Wong, Opening Ceremony took to current events and the upcoming election for their pageant show. The clothes followed suit with channeling retro Americana designs that were inspired by Carol Lim and Humberto Leon’s photos of their family’s immigration to the States. Personally, I can see myself sporting this punchy 70’s inspired striped knit dress. – Sam Walker
Tome Tome’s show kicked off a day of interesting casting, as the designers had a woman of a certain age and a plus sized model walk – and it didn’t feel gimmicky at all. The graphic black and white collection was playful and fun, and the sweet gingham closing numbers were favorites. – Caroline Grosso
Rosie Assoulin spring 2017 show – filled with tropical prints and linens – celebrated small beach towns, especially the ones that dot the Jersey Shore. But while that location doesn’t exactly bring to mind high fashion, this brightly-hued velvet dress was simply made for the red carpet. – Ally Betker
3.1 Phillip Lim Phillip Lim looked to California this season, and little bra tops (and their accompanying toned abs) peppered this collection, but a favorite was the floral print dress – easy to wear on either coast come spring. – Caroline Grosso
Delpozo Delpozo designer Josep Font studied architecture in university, and it’s evident in the way he plays with shape and proportion that structural elements are still on his mind. His Spring 2017 collection featured luminous pinks, oranges, and metallic jacquard floral garments that seemed to hang suspended by some invisible force, but it was the more tranquil radiance of this trouser look that stood out. – Katie Cusamano
Narciso Rodriguez Silver sequins and shimmery silver satin turn this otherwise minimal slip dress into a glitzy disco dancing dress. – Sam Milner
Prabal Gurung Crisp, white and effortlessly classic, perhaps Prabal’s most subtle look stole the show. – Prabal Gurung
Coach For his SS17 Coach collection, Stuart Vevers blends a feminine touch to a traditional red perfecto jacket by adding lace embroidering and pairing it with a sheer floral skirt and floral briefs. – Nora Milch
Vera Wang She’s off to the ball in a black, sheer silk gown with parachute detailing, a solid wool peplum the only thing keeping her modesty in check, her overly long sleeves making this a decidedly hands-free occasion. – Vanessa Lawrence
Tory Burch Tory Burch went back to her core for SS17, and looks with nautical influences – including this preppy blazer and subtle ship-print blouse – were winners. – Caroline Grosso
Proenza Schouler Graphic prints, sequins, and handkerchief hems left everyone heart’ing Proenza Schouler’s spring collection. – Karin Nelson
Jeremy Scott If anything, Jeremy Scott’s runway shows are always a good time — and this season he went full ’80s, or “intergalactic sci-fi babe” with kinky x-rated references and shimmering three-dimensional dresses. This closing look worn by Stella Maxwell is very literally shaped like a record, although it might prove hard to actually dance in! – Emilia Petrarca
Zac Posen While Posen’s elegant ball gowns in tulle and jacquard still anchored his most recent collection, Spring 2017 also saw him playing with new textures and silhouettes. Here, the strong shoulders and edgy interplay of sheer and sparkle mark a bold new direction for the designer. – Katie Cusamano
Rag & Bone For his first solo show, Rag & Bone designer Marcus Wainwright stayed true to the brand’s DNA with this black utilitarian coat and patent leather jeans. – Nora Milch
Hood By Air Hood By Air produces terrifying fashion and there lies its power and allure; while you might not wear their spliced pants and double-footed boots, you will fight to own and rep one of their more basic logo-emblazoned tshirts. – Karin Nelson
Simon Miller A standby for trusted denim with a comprehensive selection of vintage washes and fits, Simon Miller’s, Daniel Corrigan and Chelsea Hansford, added to their beloved basics with surprising fabrics and unique pops of color that ranged from a mossy olive to terracotta and mustard. The standout, however, were the semi-sheer crinkled separates, a particularly covetable texture when used in this oversized windbreaker. – Sam Walker
Monse Look 27 From their first season a year ago, the Monse girl, by virtue of Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia’s previous employment, has been pegged as the wilder, sexier younger sister of the Oscar de la Renta woman. But spring found the designers stretching their legs, and proving – as with this sequined, jazzy cold-shoulder number – that their girl doesn’t have to lose her edge to look grown up. – Erik Maza
Ralph Lauren Look 28 Ralph Lauren’s spring collection needed to make a statement – there was not just the critical expectation that he rise to the moment of the see-now-buy-now frenzy, but also commercial pressure with the unveiling of a second fall (well, seasonless) collection coming after the first fall collection he showed in February. Lauren was in his element here, mining the American West for references that delivered graphic color contrasts as in this beaded sweater gown. – Erik Maza
Brandon Maxwell Look 16 Whatever happened to fun? An eternal question – once infamously posed in a certain Sex and the City episode – and one that Brandon Maxwell, in his third collection, set out to answer with panache. What a joy it was to watch models shimmy down the runway – at the ornate Russian Tea Room – absolutely living for the Halston-inspired looks Maxwell put on their backs and set to a disco beat. In a strong lineup, this single-strap sleeper slinked away with best in class. – Erik Maza
Diane von Furstenberg Look 16 There’s always an obligation, whenever a new designer takes over a storied label, to pay homage to its founder, inevitably hampering whatever new direction must be undertaken to freshen things up. Jonathan Saunders wisely sidestepped that problem by distilling the essence of von Furstenberg’s breezy and empowered aesthetic without resorting to cheap pastiche. In this look, he checks off all the hallmarks – bold prints, ease of wear and a confident femininity. – Erik Maza
Thom Browne Look 6 I was charmed from the moment I walked into Thom Browne’s show space on Monday afternoon. The blue and white tiles covering the room? Clearly Browne was about to have a nautical moment, but in what direction would he go? Lily Pulitzer? Slim Aarons? David Hockney? It turned out to be a combination of all three, and then some – the finale dress was a shimmery design anchored by a disco ball headdress. As always, Browne used those references to riff on prep culture, and the most winning of the looks he showed was this deceptively simple tennis dress, a one-piece that was designed to look like separates. Charming indeed. – Erik Maza
Derek Lam Look 17 In a season that drew a lot of painterly inspiration – David Hockney at Boss and Thom Browne; the colors at Proenza Schouler enjoyed a Mondrian quality – Derek Lam looked to that American symbol of feminine iconoclasm, Georgia O’Keeffe. What this meant for him was a loose interpretation of her pragmatic style, best seen in these no-nonsense, ruddy-colored work pants and bishop-sleeve blouse. – Erik Maza
Carolina Herrera Ball gowns are par for the course at any Carolina Herrera show but the standouts this season were all do the black and white looks paired with flat shoes. More casual fabrics like this gingham dress made for a more contemporary evening solution. – Rickie De Sole
Marc Jacobs Sensory overload at the Marc Jacobs rave! Dreadlocks and sky high platforms with every look, the MJ Spring collection was youthful, colorful and fun. – Rickie De Sole
Victoria Beckham Relaxed and slouchy yet sexy is a hard combination to crack but Victoria Beckham found a way. Washed silk fabrics and bra tops lent themselves to a softer more minimalist collection. – Rickie De Sole
Michael Kors Optimism was the word on everyone’s lips leaving the Michael Kors show. With Rufus wainwright on hand to sing classics like Judy Garland’s “get happy” the mood was hard to shake. The bright florals were standouts as were the retro 40s silhouettes. – Rickie De Sole
1Vfiles
Italian designer Alessandro Trincone’s Spring 2017 collection was headline news weeks before it even hit the VFILES runway. His Japanese-inspired, wide-leg, blue “Kosode” trousers, which are paired with an umbrella headpiece, were chosen by VFILES mentor and rapper Young Thug for the cover of his new album, “No My Name Is Jeffery.” At the VFILES show on Wednesday, however, the look lacked gravitas without Thug as a model, but the all-white version, which can be worn perhaps as a men’s wear wedding dress, stood out in the lineup instead. – Emilia Petrarca
2Misha Nonoo
Misha Nonoo is no stranger to digital innovation–last season, she presented her collection on Instagram. This season, the medium changed (she opted for Snapchat, instead), but the clothes were consistently chic and wearable. – Courtney Costello
3Brock
As light and salty as a summer dip in the ocean, the Brock girl wears full-on ruffles with complete insouciance, accessorized with luxe slides and matted, roughed up ’40s hair. – Vanessa Lawrence
4Creatures of the Wind
Leave it to Creatures of the Wind to make a floral silk column dress – with lace appliqués to boot – feel anything but girlish. With snakeskin boots and a bold red lip, this look can go rocker grunge or ultra feminine. A study in contrasts, which is of course what Creatures does best. – Ally Betker
5PH5
The more colors you have in a knitted garment, the increasingly difficult it becomes to produce. Luckily for the girls behind Ph5, they have their own factory back in China, where they work closely with the technicians to produce extremely elaborate knitwear at an affordable price point. This look in particular highlights both the brand’s craftsmanship and their fresh take on how a modern, young woman really wants to wear her luxury knits today. – Emilia Petrarca
6Hellessy
Hellessy’s opening look was the epitome of a comfortable, chic ensemble for busy working women. – Sarah Zendejas
7Colovos
This colorful look stands out amongst the more minimalist Spring 2017 Colovos collection, which has become the brand’s signature since it was founded last year. The husband-and-wife team behind Colovos were formerly the creative directors at Helmut Lang, but this dress proves how their wiping the slate clean and presenting something really personal instead. The print is a photograph that Michael Colovos took of a peeling wall in the subway, which he took while dropping his son off at skateboard camp this summer. – Emilia Petrarca
8Adam Selman
A dress that seems a breeze to wear, though pasties aren’t included. – Kyle Munzenrieder
9Jason Wu
This season, Jason Wu experimented with sporty touches – neon, cut outs and stretch knits – but the most striking looks were the delicate lacy evening dresses that embraced the brand’s core ladylike aesthetic. – Sam Milner
10Area
Area’s designers Beckett Fogg and Piotrek Panszczyk have a clever way of making crazy look chic, as evidenced by this crystal tiger-print pantsuit. – Karin Nelson
11TOM FORD
Kicking off New York Fashion Week with an intimate dinner and show, Tom Ford set the bar high. The collection was sexy, sophisticated and glamorous. Best of all? It hit stores the night of the show and is available to buy and wear now. – Rickie De Sole
12THAKOON
After a season away from the New York Fashion Week schedule, Thakoon returned on Thursday night with his first see now buy now show. The fall collection was heavy on layering – taking the dress the designer is known so well for and piling on the knits, jackets, vests and socks to make it a look ready for any weather condition. – Rickie De Sole
13Akris
For Spring 2017, Akris remained true to the brand’s sophisticated DNA, but added an extra dose of femininity with pieces like this whimsical silk pleated black and white dress. – Nora Milch
14Adam Lippes
Adam Lippes found ideas for his spring collection on a trip to Jamaica, but this silk and lace flounce top, inspired by the traditional quadrille dress, will work just as well in the big city. – Karin Nelson
15Tanya Taylor
You can always count on Tanya Taylor for a pretty print, and this season’s florals are exactly what you want to wear on a breezy spring day. – Caroline Grosso
16Frame
You have to be of a certain height to wear jeans and suspenders, but no doubt many will try to pull off this covetable Frame look. – Caroline Grosso
17Coach
For his Spring 2017 Coach collection, Stuart Vevers blends a feminine touch to a traditional red perfecto jacket by adding lace embroidering and pairing it with a sheer floral skirt and floral briefs. – Nora Milch
18Hood by Air
Hood By Air produces terrifying fashion and there lies its power and allure; while you might not wear their spliced pants and double-footed boots, you will fight to own and rep one of their more basic logo-emblazoned t-shirts. – Karin Nelson
19Narciso Rodriguez
Thanks to silver sequins and a shimmery silver satin, this minimal slip dress is ready for a night at the disco. – Sam Milner
20Jeremy Scott
Jeremy Scott’s runway shows are always a good time — and this season he went full ’80s, or “intergalactic sci-fi babe” with kinky x-rated references and shimmering three-dimensional dresses. This closing look worn by Stella Maxwell is very literally shaped like a record, although it might prove hard to actually dance in! – Emilia Petrarca
21Prabal Gurung
Crisp, white and effortlessly classic, this classic look stole the show at Prabal Gurung. – Sam Milner
22Proenza Schouler
Graphic prints, sequins, and handkerchief hems left everyone heart’ing Proenza Schouler’s spring collection. – Karin Nelson
23Rag & Bone
For his first solo show, Rag & Bone designer Marcus Wainwright stayed true to the brand’s DNA with this black utilitarian coat and patent leather jeans. – Nora Milch
24Tommy Hilfiger
Gigi Hadid opened the Tommy Hilfiger Spring 2017 carnival extravaganza wearing all the trends. This military jacket fits perfectly and paired with leather pants and a casual tank, plus a fun fringed scarf, the whole look is ready to walk right off the runway. – Emilia Petrarca
25Tory Burch
Tory Burch went back to her roots for Spring 2017, and featured preppy looks, like this nautical and subtle ship-print blouse. – Caroline Grosso
26Vera Wang
She’s off to the ball in a black, sheer silk gown with parachute detailing, a solid wool peplum the only thing keeping her modesty in check, her overly long sleeves making this a decidedly hands-free occasion. – Vanessa Lawrence
27Zac Posen
While Posen’s elegant ball gowns in tulle and jacquard still anchored his most recent collection, Spring 2017 also saw him playing with new textures and silhouettes. Here, the strong shoulders and edgy interplay of sheer and sparkle mark a bold new direction for the designer. – Katie Cusumano
283.1 Phillip Lim
Phillip Lim looked to California this season, and little bra tops (and their accompanying toned abs) peppered this collection, but a favorite was the floral print dress – easy to wear on either coast come spring. – Caroline Grosso
29Sixty-nine
The 69 show was a lot like walking through the Las Vegas strip if all of the celebrity impersonators were dressed like millennials. Prince stole the show in a crop top, of course. – Jade Vallario
30Band of Outsiders
Americana, collegiate sportswear looks flooded the runway at the newly revamped Band of Outsiders debut collection Saturday night. For those who have always cherished the letterman jacket, or romanticized about having one, there are many killer ones to pick from. Outsiders and insiders alike will want to keep tabs on the evolution on this L.A.-inspired brand with a cult following. Whether they earn their varsity letters? Only time will tell. – Kristin Tice Studeman
31Alexander Wang
There was a lot to like in this collection and a lot to choose from for a fun night out. The floral print blouse was sweeter than a lot of the pieces on the runway, and only Wang can make us like a lingerie-inspired board short. – Caroline Grosso
32DELPOZO
Delpozo designer Josep Font studied architecture in university, and it’s evident in the way he plays with shape and proportion that structural elements are still on his mind. His Spring 2017 collection featured luminous pinks, oranges, and metallic jacquard floral garments that seemed to hang suspended by some invisible force, but it was the more tranquil radiance of this trouser look that stood out. – Katie Cusamano
33LACOSTE
This colorful wrap robe sweater from Lacoste Spring 2017 is the definition of luxury sportswear. Ever since Felipe Oliveira Baptista joined Lacoste as creative director, he’s added an urban, Vetements-like spin on the classic French brand by introducing modern silhouettes like this hoodie, for example, and casting all the coolest girls, as well. – Emilia Petrarca
34Opening Ceremony
With a heavy hitter cast ranging from Whoopi Goldberg to comedian Ali Wong, Opening Ceremony took to current events and the upcoming election for their pageant show. The clothes followed suit with channeling retro Americana designs that were inspired by Carol Lim and Humberto Leon’s photos of their family’s immigration to the States. Personally, I can see myself sporting this punchy 70’s inspired striped knit dress. – Sam Walker
35Rosie Assoulin
The designer’s Spring 2017 show – filled with tropical prints and linens – celebrated small beach towns, especially the ones that dot the Jersey Shore. But while that location doesn’t exactly bring to mind high fashion, this brightly-hued velvet dress was simply made for the red carpet. – Ally Betker
36RYAN ROCHE
It was far too difficult to pick a favorite look from Ryan Roche’s luxurious collection, but I love how this high neck dress is reminiscent of a modern Victorian nightgown. – Ryann Foulke
37SIES MARJAN
Is it ok to wear neon again? After overdosing on that “pop” of color trend circa 2009, Jason Wu, Alexander Wang, and this look from Sies Marjan make the case for fluoro. – Caroline Grosso
38TOME
Tome’s show kicked off a day of interesting casting, as the designers had a woman of a certain age and a plus sized model walk – and it didn’t feel gimmicky at all. The graphic black and white collection was playful and fun, and the sweet gingham closing numbers were favorites. – Caroline Grosso
39Derek Lam
In a season that drew a lot of painterly inspiration – David Hockney at Boss and Thom Browne; the colors at Proenza Schouler enjoyed a Mondrian quality – Derek Lam looked to that American symbol of feminine iconoclasm, Georgia O’Keeffe. What this meant for him was a loose interpretation of her pragmatic style, best seen in these no-nonsense, ruddy-colored work pants and bishop-sleeve blouse. – Erik Maza
40Eckhaus Latta
Despite the 90-degree heat, designers Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta showed their spring collection in a park on the Lower East Side just around the corner from their studio. This patterned, unbuttoned suit, then, not only showcased their distinct knack for wearable, gender-bending designs, but a fashionable, DIY way to let in the much-needed breeze. – Stephanie Eckhardt
41Hugo Boss
Jason Wu embraced a brighter color palate for the Boss collection making pieces like this graphic sundress feel summer ready. – Rickie De Sole
42Monse
From their first season a year ago, the Monse girl, by virtue of Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia’s previous employment, has been pegged as the wilder, sexier younger sister of the Oscar de la Renta woman. But spring found the designers stretching their legs, and proving – as with this sequined, jazzy cold-shoulder number – that their girl doesn’t have to lose her edge to look grown up. – Erik Maza
43Sixty-nine?
The 69 show was a lot like walking through the Las Vegas strip if all of the celebrity impersonators were dressed like millennials. Prince stole the show in a crop top, of course. – Jade Vallario
44Band of Outsiders
Americana, collegiate sportswear looks flooded the runway at the newly revamped Band of Outsiders debut collection Saturday night. For those who have always cherished the letterman jacket, or romanticized about having one, there are many killer ones to pick from. Outsiders and insiders alike will want to keep tabs on the evolution on this L.A.-inspired brand with a cult following. Whether they earn their varsity letters? Only time will tell. – Kristin Tice Studeman
45Hood By Air
Hood By Air produces terrifying fashion and there lies its power and allure; while you might not wear their spliced pants and double-footed boots, you will fight to own and rep one of their more basic logo-emblazoned tshirts. – Karin Nelson
46Simon Miller
A standby for trusted denim with a comprehensive selection of vintage washes and fits, Simon Miller’s, Daniel Corrigan and Chelsea Hansford, added to their beloved basics with surprising fabrics and unique pops of color that ranged from a mossy olive to terracotta and mustard. The standout, however, were the semi-sheer crinkled separates, a particularly covetable texture when used in this oversized windbreaker. – Sam Walker
47Diane von Furstenberg
There’s always an obligation, whenever a new designer takes over a storied label, to pay homage to its founder, inevitably hampering whatever new direction must be undertaken to freshen things up. Jonathan Saunders wisely sidestepped that problem by distilling the essence of von Furstenberg’s breezy and empowered aesthetic without resorting to cheap pastiche. In this look, he checks off all the hallmarks – bold prints, ease of wear and a confident femininity. – Erik Maza
48Carolina Herrera
Ball gowns are par for the course at any Carolina Herrera show, but the standouts this season were all do the black and white looks paired with flat shoes. More casual fabrics like this gingham dress made for a more contemporary evening solution. – Rickie De Sole
49Victoria Beckham
Relaxed and slouchy yet sexy is a hard combination to crack but Victoria Beckham found a way. Washed silk fabrics and bra tops lent themselves to a softer more minimalist collection. – Rickie De Sole
50Brandon Maxwell
Whatever happened to fun? An eternal question – once infamously posed in a certain Sex and the City episode – and one that Brandon Maxwell, in his third collection, set out to answer with panache. What a joy it was to watch models shimmy down the runway – at the ornate Russian Tea Room – absolutely living for the Halston-inspired looks Maxwell put on their backs and set to a disco beat. In a strong lineup, this single-strap sleeper slinked away with best in class. – Erik Maza
51Michael Kors
Optimism was the word on everyone’s lips leaving the Michael Kors show. With Rufus wainwright on hand to sing classics like Judy Garland’s “get happy” the mood was hard to shake. The bright florals were standouts as were the retro 40s silhouettes. – Rickie De Sole
52Thom Browne
I was charmed from the moment I walked into Thom Browne’s show space on Monday afternoon. The blue and white tiles covering the room? Clearly Browne was about to have a nautical moment, but in what direction would he go? Lily Pulitzer? Slim Aarons? David Hockney? It turned out to be a combination of all three, and then some – the finale dress was a shimmery design anchored by a disco ball headdress. As always, Browne used those references to riff on prep culture, and the most winning of the looks he showed was this deceptively simple tennis dress, a one-piece that was designed to look like separates. Charming indeed. – Erik Maza
53DKNY
Athletic inspired details – hoodies, knee socks, anoraks – played a key role in Maxwell Osborne and Dao Yi-Chow’s futuristic Spring 2017 collection for DKNY. – Sarah Leon
54Ralph Lauren
Ralph Lauren’s spring collection needed to make a statement – there was not just the critical expectation that he rise to the moment of the see-now-buy-now frenzy, but also commercial pressure with the unveiling of a second fall (well, seasonless) collection coming after the first fall collection he showed in February. Lauren was in his element here, mining the American West for references that delivered graphic color contrasts as in this beaded sweater gown. – Erik Maza
55Marc Jacobs
Sensory overload at the Marc Jacobs rave! Dreadlocks and sky high platforms with every look, the MJ Spring collection was youthful, colorful and fun. – Rickie De Sole